Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

another vid from my 180SX at Lakeside today. I was trying a wing and splitter. Certainly made a difference, but I didn't really like it. It caused a bit of understeer and didn't improve my lap times, but didn't get heaps of clear laps in.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFwnX80YBiw

reduced the angle of the wing. But blew another tyre this session - front right blew out as I turned into Hungry. Resulting off damaged the new front bar, front right gaurd and pushed the splitter into the castor rod bracket which also bent. Its not too bad, but I have some work to do before the Australian Supersprint this weekend.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjeCn1-CCCE

Edited by hrd-hr30

it was a little, but he did signal me through eventually. Nowhere near as frustrating as the repeated Kumho delaminations though. Not only was this the second blowout in as many events, but it was only the 4th track day since I bought them brand new in March. And it turns out the front left was also delaminated and could have let go at any moment... I got off lightly considering what could have happened if one let go on the high speed sections.

So I had to fork out for new rubber for this weekend's Australian SuperSprint Championships at Morgan Park. Great weekend at a very cool track, with a bunch of fellow SAUer's. Here's some in-car from my nugget S13 - she's looking a bit beaten up after going a few rounds with the Kumhos last week.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hoXVj1AOnU

More to come...

it was good fun out there. And very interesting to see your own lines from a chase car... I want to do flame-outs like yours :D looks much better than belching smoke lol

outright winner's in-car: http://vimeo.com/16829448

Supercharged Honda powered Elise. Its a different world of performance!

Edited by hrd-hr30
problems were with Kumho S700 slicks, but I hear the V70a suffer the same issues.

In R18 or R17? I remember Dunc (?) saying something about the R18's having that problem in

his door to door racing category, in another thread.

Top work Ash, good to see you handing it to the 4WD's. Love the diving under brakes :D

Thanks Paul.

Its hard to run with the 4wd's on the short track, they put the power down better exiting the tight turns

How are you going? I haven't seen you on the track for a while

Ash

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...