Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Quote on website for those cross drilled lines is awesome:

"by Michael Ham Date Added: 01/17/2006

Man, do these ever work! I installed them on my Nissan Maxima and that sucker actually seemed to pick up speed after I applied the brakes as I neared the intersection. Definitely improves speed and acceleration!

Rating: [5 of 5 Stars]"

Wow.....now if only I could get me some of those lines that make you accelerate when you push the brake pedal. They think of everything these days.

ADR approved (or compliant with the current rules) brake lines will give you ultimate FAIL on the race track. ADR brake lines are NOT designed for track work. You need CAMS approved lines for that, but you guessed it, CAMS approved lines are not ADR approved, ergo, roadworthy. They will cope with the pressure but i don't know why they are not legal.

I would get CAMS approved lines and forget about police troubles. Brake West do CAMS lines after i brought this up in the group buy. If you're planning to track the car at all, you're playing with fire if you get the ADR lines.

ADR approved (or compliant with the current rules) brake lines will give you ultimate FAIL on the race track. ADR brake lines are NOT designed for track work.

What about light track work with ADR approved lines, just afew times a year at the track. Still not recommend them? It seems for the price you get ADR approved here, you can import Nismo/APP lines for about the same price.

oh no! my brake lines are going to explode. As are the lines on every car sold on the Australian market....

You'll be fine moodles. I've used maltech lines for years in a couple of different cars for plenty of track work

Edited by badhairdave

referring to the group buy ADR lines as they were crimped in the wrong way. i don't know the specifics, but i can't speak for any other lines outside of the group buys ADR ones already mentioned in this thread

i'm pretty sure if you got braided lines made up by maltech, etc, they would be a different design to the group buy ADR ones from Brake West

  • 2 months later...
The round fitting is what's called a "banjo" fitting. You will also need banjo bolts and copper washers (2 per banjo fitting) to complete the job.

This only applies if you've removed the double flare seat from the bottom of the brake line threaded hole.

Hey Dale,

How do you remove flare seat from the threaded hole off the calipers?

I swapped R32 Sumitomo GTR calipers (flare fitting) for R32 GTS25 (banjo fitting) and intend to use the existing hose with the banjo fitting at the end.

Looks like I may be able to get away without having to remove the flare seat, but not 100% sure if banjo bolt with bottom out against the flare seat.

Also, when you went banjo, did you machine the mating surface flat?

Thanks,

Sam

  • 7 months later...

Hey guys, are HPI brake lines from Just Jap any good? I've never heard of HPI but they seem to think its fairly reputable Jap brand. A set for an R32 GTR is going for $399. What do the nismo ones go for?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...