Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bought a 4.5 98 dual fuel Pootrol, bought it because I have had a 4.2 before, $13k with 240k on it, fresh motor, bull bar, electric brakes, lift kit etc neat inside and out. Would love to have a better range, but the same thing with the decent diesel is $25k+, Cruiser is worse again..

Apart from that I cannot fault it, it is the second best money I have spent behind my house.

I know it uses a metric F load of gas, but even in Bathurst I can get 500k for $85 going to and from work, which is about 7-8k, $120 ish to Goulburn and back dragging an extra 1.8-2t both ways in 2 hours

I could not recommend anything else for the money

Vesh, neither of those vehicles is sufficient to tow a GTR in my opinion. Short hops I'd maybe risk it from a safety and legality aspect, but certainly not any distance.

Falcon is way over capacity, Kia is on the limit and I doubt it would cope well.

vesh, G6E turbo is great check my posts a few pages back for fuel econ and feedback - although check with Harry first :)

nah, check with Ford first. They say to limit speed to:

100km/h for 1200kg towing,

90km/h for 1600kg and

80km/h for anything over 1600kg and up to its limit of 2300kg.

independant review on carsales has this to say about BF III towing and economy

When towing a trailer weighing 1600kg, the Falcon averaged 16.1l/100km when cruising on the freeway at 80 to 90kmh

varies a bit from the enthusiastic owners on here.

I sold my Jeep.

I now have a temporary Falcon sedan.

I towed my car trailer with random shit on it last week, with much less than my car weight on it.

The Falcon was shit in comparison. Power isn't the issue, it's just a case of not enough tow vehicle mass, the Falcon gets pushed around by the towed load.

I now miss my Jeep.

Edited by Marlin

I towed my GTR back from Melbourne on the weekend, set cruise control at 120kph and it didn't deviate 1 little bees dick off 120kph the whole way.

There was not one hill I didn't climb at 120kph and she never saw higher than 2500rpm or lower than 5th gear.

880kms with 1 food/fuel stop in under 9hrs, can't ask for any more than that. Bloody diesel power all the way!!!!

And for all those fuel conversationalists out there I averaged just under 16l per 100kms, not bad for a V10 guzzler. rofl.gif

The new Jeeps look fantastic Ben, time to buy a new one I reckon....

I am looking at getting a new car and will need to be able to tow my R33 GTR, has anyone had any experience with the new Kia Sorento. I would be looking at getting the Platinum in diesel. 2000KG towing capacity

There is also a G6E turbo coming up soon at work (ex company car) which has a heavy duty tow bar. 2300KG towing capacity

Would any of these cars be good for towing??

Cheers in advance

Ive got a bf mk2 6T and the towing capacity is 1600kg. I'm pretty sure the manual says the 2300kg kit is only for the 4 speed auto. The 6 is limited to 1600 unless it changed going to FG

That said I havent found it bad to tow with, certainly not as bad as some here make out. You have to make sure the car being towed is loaded up correctly or it can get a bit dicey but thats not rocket science. No problems doing 110 on the highways down to wakefield with a car on the back as long as its far enough forward.

Edited by gregor

I towed my GTR back from Melbourne on the weekend, set cruise control at 120kph and it didn't deviate 1 little bees dick off 120kph the whole way.

There was not one hill I didn't climb at 120kph and she never saw higher than 2500rpm or lower than 5th gear.

880kms with 1 food/fuel stop in under 9hrs, can't ask for any more than that. Bloody diesel power all the way!!!!

And for all those fuel conversationalists out there I averaged just under 16l per 100kms, not bad for a V10 guzzler. rofl.gif

The new Jeeps look fantastic Ben, time to buy a new one I reckon....

action-smiley-069.gif

550 NM's of diesel goodness!! Drives nice too!

V10 cameltowrag is 750nm I think. Ample.

The VM diesel in the common V6 diesels all offer around 550nm. Also enough :)

Some pretty amazing fuel figures coming out of diesel Jeep owners too!

Despite all that, I'm really having to resist getting a Supercharged Coyote.

Edited by Marlin

V10 cameltowrag is 750nm I think. Ample.

The VM diesel in the common V6 diesels all offer around 550nm. Also enough :)

Some pretty amazing fuel figures coming out of diesel Jeep owners too!

Despite all that, I'm really having to resist getting a Supercharged Coyote.

V10 = Nice, but lots of $

I'm getting down to 8 litres to the 100 in the GC. Distance to Empty gauge shows 1000km's! It's a nice comfy ride with 4WD ability. Great balance in features vs $. Perfect for my towing and property needs.

The petrol head is getting the better of you in the Coyote. You only live once.

Ben, you looked at the new SRT8 Jeep? They reckon they'll be around $90k on the road. Very tempting I must say. The Supercharged Falcons are tempting too, but I can't bring myself to pay $80k for a taxi with nice exhaust note and some decent poke.

Mind you, the new Pathfinder tows exceptionally well, just won't sprint to 100km/h in under 5 sec.

Oh, for those who think it's silly to pay more for your tow vehicle than your race car? what drugs are you on? I'm lucky to do 2000km a year in the rally car, compared to 30,000km a year in the tow vehicle. I can claim the tow vehicle on tax. I need to drive interstate in the tow vehicle. I cart my faminly everywhere in the tow vehicle. Sure, I'll buy a $5k shitter to tow the rally car.

The new SRT8 is definately on my radar mate, but realistically, I need to weigh up the extra costs of running any sort of non-commercial vehicle versus a 100% claimable vehicle. It's in the several-thousand-dollar-per-year annoyance area. I'm looking forward to taking a closer look at one when they are available. The diesel JGC that JZP runs is also tempting mainly for the amazing economy, but is also a big FBT attractor.

I have the opportunity right now to purchase a 2011 FPV GS ute done 3,000klm, with proper suspension under it, staggered 20" wheels, exhaust/extractors/pulleys/tune and well over 500hp at the treads, for $45k. That's a decent saving, and lot of sow for the money, is also 100% claimable. That is seriously sounds like a V8 Supercar is merely a bonus :P

At least there's options. I got great money for my Jeep so took the opportunity to step out of it ($2,800 P.A. depreciation aint bad!).

I'm driving a "shitter" until I make up my mind. I reckon its liberating not having to give a shit about what I drive daily. Is this the beginning of the end for me? lol

Edited by Marlin

Ive got a bf mk2 6T and the towing capacity is 1600kg. I'm pretty sure the manual says the 2300kg kit is only for the 4 speed auto. The 6 is limited to 1600 unless it changed going to FG

That said I havent found it bad to tow with, certainly not as bad as some here make out. You have to make sure the car being towed is loaded up correctly or it can get a bit dicey but thats not rocket science. No problems doing 110 on the highways down to wakefield with a car on the back as long as its far enough forward.

What cars are you towing though?

RX7s or GTRs?

the new navara diesel 550 seems like a great tow dual cab and can still put stuff in the back. A lot of grey nomads seem to be buying these to tow their 5th wheelers as they are the only dual cab that can tow them well and must be good on fuel if the oldies are using them.

We have them at work now and geez they are good. often tow 2T plus sit on 115 and fuel is only around the 11L/100KM.

the new navara diesel 550 seems like a great tow dual cab and can still put stuff in the back. A lot of grey nomads seem to be buying these to tow their 5th wheelers as they are the only dual cab that can tow them well and must be good on fuel if the oldies are using them.

We have them at work now and geez they are good. often tow 2T plus sit on 115 and fuel is only around the 11L/100KM.

No doubt they are a good thing. I sussed them out at the dealer, but sheesh, even at "mates rates", bloody hard to swallow the price for what is essentially, a bloody basic ute with some tinsel and a half decent engine. No wonder the dealerships report they're not selling them in any numbers, and we're not seeing them on the road.

I'm driving a "shitter" until I make up my mind. I reckon its liberating not having to give a shit about what I drive daily. Is this the beginning of the end for me? lol

Have you lost your soul?? thumbsup.gif

I'm sure you will get bored real soon!

No doubt they are a good thing. I sussed them out at the dealer, but sheesh, even at "mates rates", bloody hard to swallow the price for what is essentially, a bloody basic ute with some tinsel and a half decent engine. No wonder the dealerships report they're not selling them in any numbers, and we're not seeing them on the road.

yeah hard to justify, just think in a year or two resale should be shot so maybe a bargain to be had then.

What cars are you towing though?

RX7s or GTRs?

Towing an RX7. Trailer and car would be pretty damn close to the 1600kg tow rating though. I wasn't suggesting it would be a good idea to tow a full weight GTR with one, just that if you are towing within the rated load they aren't as bad as some here are making out. Not arguing they are the best tow vehicle around just that they arent as bad as some people would have you believe. Having a dedicated tow car or a pricey late model 4WD for a daily doesnt suit everyone's needs or circumstances.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...