Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the main reason for my comment was to highlight that he should check the capacity of the 6 speed auto before he jumps into anything. No use having a 2300 kg capacity if it results in a fried ZF gearbox and a hefty rebuild. And I believe the rebuild cost for the 6 speed is not particularly cheap.

ok,

whats diesel, can tow, be a family car and within 5 years old that is under 20k?

I actually like a skoda octivia wagon diesel but can only tow 1300kg. well..Id prefer them to a commodore wagon

I guess the biggest question is what is your all up weight of what you're towing. Remember, be realistic, because if there's an accident, the insurance company will definately be checking.

Personally, I reckon I'd be looking at an "SUV" style of vehicle and if TDi, I'd demand it be automatic tranny..... and my #1 pick for a balance of reliability and quality would be a SanteFe. I know someone who has a few as company vehicles, is on their second batch, and have never once had an issue. 2 tonne capacity too, so it has a bit up its sleeve.

Haggle on something like this or buy a private one;

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/hyundai-santa-fe-2007-12199428?base=1216&vertical=Car&Range=Price:Min,25000~1&eapi=2&sort=default&cr=0&__N=1246 1247 1252 1282 1216&silo=Stock&find=diesel hyundai AWD|CarAll

A diesel Grand Vitara would go close, but I can't remember if they were available as an auto. Something like this;

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/suzuki-grand-vitara-2009-12144469?base=1216&vertical=Car&Range=Price:Min,25000~1|Year:2008,Max&eapi=2&sort=default&cr=0&__N=1246 1247 1252 1282 1216&silo=Stock&find=diesel vitara |CarAll

X-Trails and Captivas are ghay.... can't tow squat.

And, FWIW, I would avoid euro like the plague. Especially a DSG equiped euro. I love the way they drive and "feel", but they're not a wise 2nd hand "out of warranty" purchase in my opinion.

Im not sure I could bring myself to actually purchase a hyundai...

but this is something I would like to hear more on as well...

ok,

whats diesel, can tow, be a family car and within 5 years old that is under 20k?

navara D40 RWD dual cab but would be hard pressed to find for under 20K with lowish Ks

I would like to get another navara D40 4wd.... but I would also like to not spend another 37K on one

Richard, the little TDi in the Hyundai is a trooper. Torquey and smooth. As much as it pains me to say it.... I kind of rate them a little bit. lol

I haven't towed with one, but I'd expect them to tow better than a lighter, sedan based vehicle with similar power/torque, as we've discussed 'til we're blue in the face.

D40 Nirvanas are a good thing no doubt, with the auto diesel easily the pic, but, a good one with reasonable kays is still a late 20's proposition. And to be realistic, they're still not a "family car"........ the rear seat is upright, the dynamics are still very much "leaf sprung ute", and so is the fit and finish. I also have my doubts about how well they "crash" from a safety viewpoint. So no, not a "family" vehicle in my mind.

Edited by Marlin

carsales only have Santa Fe list near 20K with 95,000Ks on them...

Whats people opinion on higher K vehicles, Ive been aiming to get 10-40K car... and your looking atleast 30K for something decent that can tow and is diesel that can fit 4 people...

Not sure I can be happy with an auto either, autos are dangerous IMO

santa fe 2000kg braked

TDi motor is rated at 145kw and 436nm @ 1800rpm

Falcon 2300kg braked at max 80km/h.

straight 6 - 195 and 391nm

Turbo 6 - 270kw and 533nm @ 2000rpm

fixed that for ya. :P

Anything over 1600kg limits your speed according to the manufacturer. The manufacturer specified speed is a towing limit as much as the manufacturer specified weight is.

I'd suggest insurance companies would know Ford's towing limits (both weight and speed) as well...

Who's going to be happy doing 80km/h in a 100 or 110 zone, other than nomads?

Edited by hrd-hr30

fixed that for ya. :P

Anything over 1600kg limits your speed according to the manufacturer. The manufacturer specified speed is a towing limit as much as the manufacturer specified weight is.

I'd suggest insurance companies would know Ford's towing limits (both weight and speed) as well...

Who's going to be happy doing 80km/h in a 100 or 110 zone, other than nomads?

All accidents would happen at less then 80k though,surely.

cheers lads,

we have an i30 diesel and love it! so I guess makes sense to look at the same badge.

Ben, I know my way around insurance, thats not an issue :P industry knowledge hehe

regarding km's on a diesel, they are best at 100k yeah? just been ran in? isnt that the joke? lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...