Jump to content
SAU Community

what tyres should i choose???

sinisteR32
 Share

Recommended Posts

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

Try one of the better brands where you're not paying for the name, like Michelin, Falken, Kumho, etc. Simex or Nankang if you're really on a budget (they're pretty good for cheap tyres). Do a search for specific models, it's been covered numerous times :rofl:

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

205/55-16 is stock gts-t size and i think 225/50-16 is GTR size (could be wrong). They're about the same overall diameter too which is handy.

Get the best ones you can afford, because good tyres will make a fairly big difference to your cars handling.

Check out places with second hand rubber too, you can get some real bargains on brand name stuff at the better end of the tyre spectrum

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
CerealKiller Veteran

CerealKiller

Posted
Posted

hmmm...I'm in the same boat aswell. My GTS-t is running 225/50/16. I currently have Yoko A539 but I've been doing some research and it's been quite negative.

Here's the current list of tyres I'm looking at (in 225/50/16) which some prices:

Falken ST115 - $198

Kumho ECSTA Supra 712 - $180

Dunlop FM901 - $220

Yokohama A539 - $185

Bridgestone G3 - $210

Bridgestone S03 - $240

Hankook K104 - (couldn't get a price)

Pirelli P7000 - $185

Sumitomo HTR Z50 - $145

now as you can see I have a big dilemma. The Sumitomo's are dirt cheap and apparently are quite good. But the fella at Jax said they're cheap and nasty. He recommended the Kumho or the Hankook. The bloke who recommended the Sumitomo's swears by them. He said bang for you buck there is none better. They're made from the Dunlop factory so it's not of dodgey quality, and they do handle well.

MOTOR's recent tyre view had the Hankook come up first (I'm told this I haven't had a chance to take a look). Dunlop FM901's are noisy - not sure if the exhaust will cover that noise. The S03's are soft like the G3 and the A539.

I'm trying to do some research about the Sumitomo's. I'll report back very soon. (I need new tyres by Saturday).

meshmesh Mentor

meshmesh

Posted
Posted

dunno if this helps, but....

Like most of you, I been through a heep of different tyres.. The best allround performance I ever had & still have are the Michelin Pilot X. A bit pricey but they're as quiet as mouse and grip like the all mighty. Falkens:( personally I'd stay away from them. The last set I bought I think they're were ST115's they were suppose to replace the GB's. Had them on a rex for a month "I would have been better riding on bare rims & took em :D " Got the Michelins & never looked back.

CerealKiller Veteran

CerealKiller

Posted
Posted

reporting back. I got the Pirelli P7000's as they were miles cheaper than other places.

They grip very hard. Hard to lose traction and make wheel spin, axel tramp is not longer a factor.

Around corners they seem very grippy but I don't know the limits of the car yet...

(B1) MR_fanny Grand Master

(B1) MR_fanny

Posted
Posted

ive just replaced my rears with kumho 711 225/50/16 and the car feels terrible. mind u im still runnin 3yr old nangkangs at the front. the car feels very floaty especially when accelarating(i presume because of the shitty tires up front) and i get terrible understeer at low speeds. as for cornering they do the job well. went for a cruise with the wrx club yesterday to portsea and arthurs seat, couldnt wipe the smile off my face on those twisties then i was reminded how loose it felt on the straights.

anybody have any ideas on why this is happening??

Gold Rays Collaborator

Gold Rays

Posted
Posted

Get Dunlop Formula 901s for $200 and you will not complain. My mate has them and he loves them. There not that noisy. I've got Dunlop W10's on atm and they are great. I sometimes find it hard to loss trackion in the wet and they are a great tyre for both road and track. I'm getting 901's next cause they are the replacement for the W10's and they are supposed to be better. The noise is unnoticable, I've been in my mates car and not noticed it at all, so I highly recommend them.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...