Bomberman's Rb26debt Build From Dmms Or Better Known As Dazmo

[ashneel]

love reading great build thread like this. give you so much info.

great work your doing there bomberman.

so what was the story with the second N1 block???

[AtomicBomberMan]

Cheers Ashneel, i'll try to post up whatever i can. Sometimes when youre too hands on, its very hard to stop and snap pictures. The first block was honed out 2 thou over the specified piston to bore clearance to 4 thou. For Japanese pistons its 2 thou! so i had to get a new block.

The head is back from Will at JHH Engineering. I dont have any pictures of the head build, only of the finished product. Anyway the work carried out on the head was:

Machine HKS valve guides down to fit head

Ream inside valve guides to suit valves.

Fit Guides to head

Remove Intake and Exhaust valve seats

Fit hardened and strengthened in/ex valve seats and machine to size

Fit Supertech 1mm oversize valves IN/EX

Assemble head with new sping seats for inner and outer springs, new collets, and new valve stem seals (from nismo gasket kit)

Fit Apexi cams and machine head for lobe clearance

Fit Tomei cam stud kit

Shim to correct clearances

Skim head.

wrap in glad wrap to seal in "freshness"

the underside. intake are the black valves, and the exhaust are the silver ones (inconel)

Block was brought back out and block surface was cleaned with thinners and a clean cotton cloth.

and a set of ARP head studs fitted.

Here is DAZMO SHOWING OFF picking up the block by one head stud with two fingers!

Dazmo getting ready for a thorough cleaning with a clean cotton rag and thinners. (notice he has on NISMO uniform! Takes it seriously doesnt he! )

Dazza's Missus always complains he won't even wipe the table! Look what i got him doing! Actually i would have done this but i had to keep my hands clean so i wouldnt get my camera dirty! Anyway, all excess oil was wiped off.

Head is almost ready to go on! Put a screwdriver in the stud hole in the head and lean it back. Don't rest the head on its face as it will bend the valves. (right miss carter?)

NEXT.... we took out the Tomei 1.0mm metal head gasket and sprayed it with Hylomar for better sealing

Look at the concentration and CAN CONTROL!

Make sure it is well coated front and back

Place the gasket over the head studs, first making sure surface is still clean. And the next step is important, wipe excess hylomar on Nismo shirt

And whatever you cant get off on your shirt, wipe on your pants! Hylomar goes on clear but turns blue and gooey to aid sealing.

It's best you have a helping hand with this part as the head needs to be lowered horizontally to the block. If you dont keep it flat it will get caught on the studs. I finally had to get my hands dirty. Hence NO PICS!

more pics soon.......

Edited June 12, 2009 by AtomicBomberMan

[bigmikespec]

Wow, great work. Glad to see you guys are wearing the appropriate PPE (i.e. safet boots = thongs), haha.

Great photos, we should all have a mate like DAZMO who can screw together an RB!

[Huy]

Great thread, ABM. Informative and detailed! Can't say i understood everything, but it's certainly interesting. I think i'll be having crankshaft dreams tonight..

[zebra]

Its coming along nicely, and I only just noticed the rb26DEBT part lol

[AtomicBomberMan]

OK PEOPLE! LOOK AND LEARN! This is one of Dazmos closely guarded secrets. This is why his engines run so well. He tells me that its all about how you treat your engines. Slow and steady....... No need to rush as this only upsets them. As you can see from the pic a bit of lube, foreplay and toys works wonders.........

See!? Another "HAPPY" engine.

ok seriously though, lucky for us we did not have to unbolt the cams to do up the head stud nuts. There were recesses in the Apexi cams which allowed us to get the socket past the cam to tighten the nuts. This saved a bundle of time!

The LYNX effect by DAZ.

Torque to ARP Head stud specs. When you make grunting facial expressions, you know they are torqued to spec

Make sure you do them all up!

[AtomicBomberMan]

Alright, next on the list was the cam cover baffles. I did at one stage consider getting MINES cam baffles. But in the end, i settled for MINES STYLE offered by Hi Octane. This is mainly because the local ones really were almost if not exact equivalent to the MINES ones, but at less than half the price! I would like to be able to say "i have MINES cam baffles" purely for wank factor but I just couldnt justify spending the extra money.

My covers and the MINES "STYLE" cam cover baffles

Here is a better shot of the locally made ones.

Here are some genuine Mines ones.

Yellow sponges on the genuine ones

I could not see over $200 worth of difference!

Remove the old plate/baffle

Before stuffing in the supplied sponges, make sure you degrease and clean the insides of the covers!

Apply some 3bond around the outside, put in the baffle and screw it down.

To fit the cam baffles, we had to move the cam cap cover thingys up to the back of the head. As Daz is so happily showing us. Note, don't talk to the guy holding the camera!

These two pics look alike dont they!

AND

Here is Daz 3bonding the half moon seals. These two seals are not included in the gasket kit!

Put in a new cam cover gasket, provided in kit, and the covers were ready to go on!

Oh yeah, the cam covers were done by Chris at CRAVED COATINGS. Great work, VERY reasonable prices. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! If you would like his details they are on the forum or shoot me a pm and i will pass them onto you.

This is the finish i chose. LOVE IT! Great work CRAVED!

Covers went on, Every time Dazza finished work for the day. He would wrap my baby up in glad wrap, to stop any contaminants from getting in as the engine was not fully sealed yet. I owe Dazza's missus about 10 rolls of the stuff!

Edited June 19, 2009 by AtomicBomberMan

[ezy_09s]

Nice work , looks like its just about ready to go back in...(now awaiting results)

[AtomicBomberMan]

Thanks ezy 9s. A little way off yet. Still need to cross a few things off the shopping list. Slowly but surely.......

Edited June 19, 2009 by AtomicBomberMan

[Swiper the Fox]

Darren loves keeping everything on the build clean and wrapped.

Its the stale sandwiches that really irks him.

I hope your not using that long extension when doing the final torque on the head studs Darren.

Edited June 19, 2009 by DiRTgarage

[AtomicBomberMan]

Dirtgarage, can you please tell us why we shouldnt use a long extension to torque up the studs? Is it because longer extensions will twist more giving an inaccurate torque reading?

[AtomicBomberMan]

Now, onto oiling. As I said before, i would have loved to have gone the dry sump route. But budget just does not allow. Maybe further down the track. For an oil pump i decided to go with a pump from Reinik or now known as Reimax. Reimax have had a lot to do with N1 and Group A. So I assume the pumps they use on these cars would be fairly reliable. They are also the ones that built the rb-x engine for the 400R.

I bought this pump quite some time ago. So it is still a REINIK. The new ones have REIMAX on the cover.

The gears were removed and sent off to get cryoed. Hopefully this will add a little longevity.

I FORGOT TO TAKE PICTURES OF THE GEARS!

Brought out the Hylomar again to spray the water pump gasket.

Dazza gets his fingers sticky

Time to push on the pump

Checking to see if the gasket is on properly

Add bolts

Torque to spec

[unique1]

I hope your not using that long extension when doing the final torque on the head studs Darren.

+1 thats a damn long extension definately would twist alot and give false torque readings, avoid extensions if at all possible and shortest if you have to use one. Though im sure Dazmo would already know that

I also found out my head was ported by same guy as well, small world, does yours say anything on the head stating stage 3 or something engraved on the inlet side near where the water bleed area is on the same face the cam covers sit on? mine says "A.V. stage 3 port and polish I & E" from memory.

[AtomicBomberMan]

Phew! Thanks for the heads up guys. You guys had me all worried! This is one reason why I dont build engines! i just checked with Daz, and he actually knew and remembers that night clearly (this was back in March) that he did torque it up with that long extension. But Dazz was right on the ball, not long after i left that night (which was quite late by the way), Dazza had realized this, reopened his shop and did them up properly with the shortest extension possible! Way to go buddy!

Edited June 19, 2009 by AtomicBomberMan

[33 GTR]

hey i told you i was on here.

just wait till mines ready then you'll have to learn to drive....

[sic200]

hey i told you i was on here.

just wait till mines ready then you'll have to learn to drive....

lol.. yeh chris.. all this power your gonna need a heavier right foot.. and possibly a broom handle for me to keep your foot pegged there till it hits the limiter and no sooner! well done to dazmo, hopefully everything goes smoothly! btw chris.. you should get daz some personalised "nursmo" shirts

Edited June 24, 2009 by sic200

[AtomicBomberMan]

Hahaha, cheers sic200, personalized shirts? hmmm.... you mean with DA ZOO MO embroidered on it? i'll keep that in mind.

33gtr.... i'll start worrying "WHEN" you get your car ready

[AtomicBomberMan]

Water pump is next. I was going to use the N1 waterpump but i came across this pump in Japan. When it was sale, it was sold as an piece of memorabilia or something, as it was off an R32 Group A car. We are still uncertain if it is still fully operational, but it seems to turn and feels as if there is no play. For now we will put it on and see.

The engravings on it were supposedly a selling point, but i dont know what they mean.

This is the pump compared to the 24U N1 pump.

The underside and fins. N1 pump on top.

Goes on just like any other pump.

Dazza workin his tube. Look at the hand control! Takes a lot of hand strength and coordination to to get it commin out like that! Long and even streams.....

Bolts up just the same

Edited June 24, 2009 by AtomicBomberMan

[AtomicBomberMan]

Time for timing gear to go on. The back plate first though.

Goes on easiest with even pressure on the gear (hence the socket) and a smile.

Brand new PITWORK Idler pulley and belt tensioner.

Camshaft front oil seals need to go in.

Timing cover back plate. Make sure the canister tubes have been cleaned also.

Its Christmas again!

HKS purple is so nice!

Torque to spec.

Make sure gears dont turn!

More purple goodness. HKS timing belt

Dazz lining up the timing marks

[dazmo]

hey i told you i was on here.

just wait till mines ready then you'll have to learn to drive....

Mate you chop and change your mind more than the bomber man Will give you a race when your all done but it will include some corners none of this straight line stuff .