Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

its not exactly the easiest conversion but its doable.... ive already gone through all this b4.... all gtr components bolt straight up etc.... the annoying part is making the attessa work.... if u can get all lines reservoir computer wiring etc u can make it work.... the only problem aswell is the transfer case fouls the tunnel due to it being rwd factory floor pan but thats easy sorted and if u wanna keep ur rb25 im not 100% sure if the stagea sump will suite i dont see y not but i guess get a stagea awd sump from the 25 version check diff ratios etc... that side im not sure.... its alot of work and alot of money... make u think y bother and just buy a gtr least u get the pumped guards looks aswell..... but yeh gr8 idea still. let me know how it goes

Short answer as it has been covered many times.

You can do it, but there are a lot of things you need to get hold of and it will be costly. If you were given for free what you need it would be worth doing just for the fun factor of the build.

You'd be better off buying a GT-R or Gts-4 if you want AWD.

Use the search function and you'll find what you're looking for.

Cheers for the summing it up for me guys.

"the only problem aswell is the transfer case fouls the tunnel due to it being rwd factory floor pan but thats easy sorted"

Exactly what I didn't want to know. How is this overcome? Expensive?

Thanks again

a stagea 4wd sump wont work because they are just a normal gtr sump, u really need either a stagea rb25 engine thats already 4wd (they have the bolt pattern on the block to suit the 4wd and 2wd sumps and the normal 2wd rb25s only have the 2wd sump bolt pattern), or u can buy a rb30 sump adaptor i suppose and use that.

The amount of money you'd spend would be more if you were to source everything you need, than if you sold your RWD and purchased a Gts-4.

The other factor is that finding everything you need. You'd have more luck finding an honest cop than finding all of your parts.

The engine/sump/diff combo, the ECU, engine/dash/rear wiring harnesses, rear reservoir, rear diff, accelerometer, etc....

Good luck finding it all.

Really man, just sell your current beast if you really, really want one.

That's the best advice I can give.

  • 2 weeks later...
Cheers for the summing it up for me guys.

"the only problem aswell is the transfer case fouls the tunnel due to it being rwd factory floor pan but thats easy sorted"

Exactly what I didn't want to know. How is this overcome? Expensive?

Thanks again

I assume you are wanting to use GTR ATTESSA?

In that case its MUCH more complex than just chopping up your floor plan.

You have to get the ATTESSA working via G Sensors and all the rest of it electrically, its not just a mechanical conversion.

If you want to keep the RB25 - buy a GTR and put the RB25 in there. Easiest and cheapest way...

Although why you would do that is beyond me. Same as everyone else that dreams about doing it - and i say dream because reality is its pointless - ends up doing the costing and just gives up.

  • 8 years later...

Waking up an old thread here rather than start yet another new one on the same subject. 

Let me start by stating this... in my country we are not allowed to import any vehicle over 2 years old.

car PARTS can be imported for old vehicles but the body can  not be imported.

There are no R33 GTRs here. There is however a GTS-T which is up for sale.

I'm looking at buying this R33 GTS-T if it is possible to fully convert it to GTR spec.

the question is this... if I buy the GTS-T, then buy a GTR in Japan and get it stripped and all the parts other than the body sent over here, will everything bolt on to the GTS-T body ? (Yes I know the rear quarter panels need to be cut out and swapped)

someone on another forum mentioned that the GTR chassis legs curved upwards allowing for the front drive shafts. Implying that the GTS-T chassis legs are different.

What is the true fact here ?

can the swap I'm suggesting be done ?

doingvthe huge amount of work involved is not an issue as I have a fully equipped workshop and skilled mechanics.

wecare currently doing a Stagea  conversion in the same manner. Converting a the body of a base non turbo RWD 25G model to 25T RS-V from Japan. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...