Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts-t Awd Conversion

Aidan
 Share

Recommended Posts

skylinekid Proficient

skylinekid

Posted
Posted

its not exactly the easiest conversion but its doable.... ive already gone through all this b4.... all gtr components bolt straight up etc.... the annoying part is making the attessa work.... if u can get all lines reservoir computer wiring etc u can make it work.... the only problem aswell is the transfer case fouls the tunnel due to it being rwd factory floor pan but thats easy sorted and if u wanna keep ur rb25 im not 100% sure if the stagea sump will suite i dont see y not but i guess get a stagea awd sump from the 25 version check diff ratios etc... that side im not sure.... its alot of work and alot of money... make u think y bother and just buy a gtr least u get the pumped guards looks aswell..... but yeh gr8 idea still. let me know how it goes

2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

Posted
Posted

Short answer as it has been covered many times.

You can do it, but there are a lot of things you need to get hold of and it will be costly. If you were given for free what you need it would be worth doing just for the fun factor of the build.

You'd be better off buying a GT-R or Gts-4 if you want AWD.

Use the search function and you'll find what you're looking for.

Aidan Contributor

Aidan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers for the summing it up for me guys.

"the only problem aswell is the transfer case fouls the tunnel due to it being rwd factory floor pan but thats easy sorted"

Exactly what I didn't want to know. How is this overcome? Expensive?

Thanks again

unique1 Mentor

unique1

Posted
Posted

a stagea 4wd sump wont work because they are just a normal gtr sump, u really need either a stagea rb25 engine thats already 4wd (they have the bolt pattern on the block to suit the 4wd and 2wd sumps and the normal 2wd rb25s only have the 2wd sump bolt pattern), or u can buy a rb30 sump adaptor i suppose and use that.

2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

Posted
Posted

The amount of money you'd spend would be more if you were to source everything you need, than if you sold your RWD and purchased a Gts-4.

The other factor is that finding everything you need. You'd have more luck finding an honest cop than finding all of your parts.

The engine/sump/diff combo, the ECU, engine/dash/rear wiring harnesses, rear reservoir, rear diff, accelerometer, etc....

Good luck finding it all.

Really man, just sell your current beast if you really, really want one.

That's the best advice I can give.

  • 2 weeks later...
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Cheers for the summing it up for me guys.

"the only problem aswell is the transfer case fouls the tunnel due to it being rwd factory floor pan but thats easy sorted"

Exactly what I didn't want to know. How is this overcome? Expensive?

Thanks again

I assume you are wanting to use GTR ATTESSA?

In that case its MUCH more complex than just chopping up your floor plan.

You have to get the ATTESSA working via G Sensors and all the rest of it electrically, its not just a mechanical conversion.

If you want to keep the RB25 - buy a GTR and put the RB25 in there. Easiest and cheapest way...

Although why you would do that is beyond me. Same as everyone else that dreams about doing it - and i say dream because reality is its pointless - ends up doing the costing and just gives up.

  • 8 years later...
ceejay Explorer

ceejay

Posted
Posted

Waking up an old thread here rather than start yet another new one on the same subject. 

Let me start by stating this... in my country we are not allowed to import any vehicle over 2 years old.

car PARTS can be imported for old vehicles but the body can  not be imported.

There are no R33 GTRs here. There is however a GTS-T which is up for sale.

I'm looking at buying this R33 GTS-T if it is possible to fully convert it to GTR spec.

the question is this... if I buy the GTS-T, then buy a GTR in Japan and get it stripped and all the parts other than the body sent over here, will everything bolt on to the GTS-T body ? (Yes I know the rear quarter panels need to be cut out and swapped)

someone on another forum mentioned that the GTR chassis legs curved upwards allowing for the front drive shafts. Implying that the GTS-T chassis legs are different.

What is the true fact here ?

can the swap I'm suggesting be done ?

doingvthe huge amount of work involved is not an issue as I have a fully equipped workshop and skilled mechanics.

wecare currently doing a Stagea  conversion in the same manner. Converting a the body of a base non turbo RWD 25G model to 25T RS-V from Japan. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...