Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys installed mine today

ive got a 6mt so i dont know if any difference yet as i havent even driven the car.

the install was very easy and straight forward. took about 45min all up.

if i were you swap the wires 2 and 8 around as the wire for 8 is a bit longer and will get to the grounding point a bit easier, and 2 is a bit shorter it goes to the battery, and will look a bit neater.

also when you install put all your terminals the right way up, makes it a bit neater and better contact. The wire should be up the top and the terminal flat on the bottom,

Edited by BLISTC
  • Replies 212
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Bought this kit with some hesitation as there was no guarantee as how it would fit a 300GT with VQ30DD.

I can now say that I am glad I bought it!!

It did come in handy that I have a 1m cable from another grounding kit available to me though.

I needed it to connect to the battery terminal, replacing wire #2 in the instructions.

Other then that, the front timing cover ground point in step 9 is further away from the plenum side grounding point in step 5 so I just swapped cable lengths around and I ended up with wire #4 unused.

I couldn't find any grounding point bolted to the inner fender wall as describled in step 14 so I looped it back to the -ve battery terminal.

Cable length down to the 5 sp auto tranny is fine. I did not reset the ECU. All bolt lengths are fine, I only changed the bolt at the -ve terminal to a longer one.

The car certainly felt more responsive and 'ready to go' when you accelerate from stand still.

The gear changes are more efficient (earlier) ... semi auto gear changes no longer have that horrible delay.

I did not tell my wife anything as I wanted to see if she would feel any difference herself when she took the car to work yesterday.

She came back and asked me what I did with the car as she was feeling that the car was pulling harder and quicker. hehee ..

Edited by nissan rules

sorry for the crappy pics but here is mine installed from last week:

engine cover on:

3700620329_789a89f562.jpg

engine cover off: (you can also see the motordyne plenum spacer installed in this pic)

3701426654_e20836b4d3.jpg

also installed the key hole delete on the drivers side.... much cleaner look!

3700617625_f3b252c342.jpg

Edited by BLISTC
Kit received today.

once again, thanks for all your efforts in organizing this group buy Fox.

Its much appreciated.

Ur welcome!

and very sorry to MILLOS and Will Power

I couldnt send the kits out 2day bcoz i've been sick for few days. sorry sorry!

ill do it on monday for sure!

Bought this kit with some hesitation as there was no guarantee as how it would fit a 300GT with VQ30DD.

I can now say that I am glad I bought it!!

It did come in handy that I have a 1m cable from another grounding kit available to me though.

I needed it to connect to the battery terminal, replacing wire #2 in the instructions.

Other then that, the front timing cover ground point in step 9 is further away from the plenum side grounding point in step 5 so I just swapped cable lengths around and I ended up with wire #4 unused.

I couldn't find any grounding point bolted to the inner fender wall as describled in step 14 so I looped it back to the -ve battery terminal.

Cable length down to the 5 sp auto tranny is fine. I did not reset the ECU. All bolt lengths are fine, I only changed the bolt at the -ve terminal to a longer one.

The car certainly felt more responsive and 'ready to go' when you accelerate from stand still.

The gear changes are more efficient (earlier) ... semi auto gear changes no longer have that horrible delay.

I did not tell my wife anything as I wanted to see if she would feel any difference herself when she took the car to work yesterday.

She came back and asked me what I did with the car as she was feeling that the car was pulling harder and quicker. hehee ..

glad that it fits!

post up some pics if u can.

Finally managed to get mine and put it on, ended up putting it half on in the dark...

Went for a drive and first impressions are good, VDC seems to improved which is what I was secretly hoping. When going from first to second in a manual flat out with VDC on, as you put it into second it usually feels like you've hit the brakes but it's more mild now, the power comes on quicker after VDC has done it's thing. So hopefully in the wet when accelerating from a standstill it will be improved too, will see how it goes when it rains.

Sort of felt like there was a little bit more go and responsiveness but it could also be a placebo like effect, should become obvious with a bit more driving.

Oh and some of those bolts for stock earthing points on the car are quite soft, don't give them too much torque :down:

Sorry mate, I know I'm being a bother. I'm still alive and kickin', but will only be back in Melbourne on Thursday. Actually I think you can post it anytime now, I now have enough time to pick it up from the post office without fear of them returning to sender!

Edited by siglapian
Sorry mate, I know I'm being a bother. I'm still alive and kickin', but will only be back in Melbourne on Thursday. Actually I think you can post it anytime now, I can always pick it up from the post office!

It's ok mate, i can post it out for you on wed.

i installed a home made jobbie on my M35 today, made a fairly large difference IMO. its nice and smooth, idles well and maybe, only MAYBE, shifts gears faster. im driving down the coast tonight so we will sew how true that is.

not bad for $20 worth of parts, and i didnt even do the gearbox, just the block and manifold. i might ground out the chassis and rough up the factory ground points so it makes better contact

I bought a generic grounding kit from HK (well, bought it 3 years ago for about $50 AUD) and it comprised of 5 cables, but reading this thread, it seems that I am missing 3!!! (in order to be just as good as the US kit)...

I have wired up mine a bit differently though....And I'll take a few pics to show you (after tomorrow's VIC Meet). The only cable I think is an 'essential' is the tranny one, so I am gonna find another wire to do it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...