Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

See i told you they'd make a difference!

I have the Gordgee ones on mine and the build quality is well the best you can get. And the support was great too. They came in a RHD kit and with RHD instructions. There were 10 wires 4gauge each.

I actually wrote down all the lengths of them when I got them so I can duplicate them if needed, but I forgot to post them up and have since lost the measurements... sorry! I don't think it would be difficult to make some up yourself, but if you don't mind paying the 230 odd dollars to get them as I said they are great quality.

When I installed them, I installed them in stages to see where the difference was made. I actually drove around for months in between and got a good idea if they made any difference. No I didn't remove any cables between stages.

1) I installed the six cables that go round the block and chassis first - no difference.

2) Then I installed the cable that goes from the block to the negative battery terminal - night and day change. Car started quicker, more responsive throttle, gear changes quicker(on the CVT)

3) Cable between the ECU and TCU - Didn't notice any discernable difference

4) Cable from the block to the transmission - No change again

5) Cable from the block to the ECU - No change again

So, if I was to build them myself I would install the cable that goes from the engine to the negative battery terminal first and see if it made any difference and maybe leave it at that.

If someone is willing to do a test when they receive their batch of cables, could you install just this wire first and see if it makes a difference? It's been bugging me for a while now :laugh:

Cheers.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 212
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I bought a generic grounding kit from HK (well, bought it 3 years ago for about $50 AUD) and it comprised of 5 cables, but reading this thread, it seems that I am missing 3!!! (in order to be just as good as the US kit)...

I have wired up mine a bit differently though....And I'll take a few pics to show you (after tomorrow's VIC Meet). The only cable I think is an 'essential' is the tranny one, so I am gonna find another wire to do it.

can you post pic on yours??

those who installed the tranny cable, just wondering how far up you need to squeeze underneath?

With the car jacked and on stand, is it easier to squeeze in from the driver side (since the instruction said it was on US' passenger side),

or is it easier from the front on?

  • 5 months later...
can you post pic on yours??

those who installed the tranny cable, just wondering how far up you need to squeeze underneath?

With the car jacked and on stand, is it easier to squeeze in from the driver side (since the instruction said it was on US' passenger side),

or is it easier from the front on?

As above, what's the best way to install the tranny cable? I should probably get some jack stands first but perhaps it can be done with just the car jacked up? Everything else installed pretty easily, haven't gone out for a drive yet tho but is an ECU reset really needed before any potential changes appear? thx

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Fitted the earth kit today and found out that the AT wire is too short and cant reach to the transmission on my V35 250GT!

Its about 5cm too short.

So for now i leave the AT wire off and all other wires fitted with no problem.

The instructions came with the kit is easy to follow but the photos would be great if is in colours and not just black and white.

Anyone fitted the AT wire to the transmission?

Here is a photo of the kit fitted:

IMG_4533_Medium.jpg

Edited by Son Gokou
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
hey guys i bought the sxexcx kit and i installed it al but just the at wire i cant seem to find where to the tranny it connects, any help? - or a pic would be awesome too.

On the transmission dipstick, use the existing bolt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...