Jump to content
SAU Community

Awd Vs Rwd

Midol

By Midol,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Midol Community Regular

Midol

Posted
Posted

G'day guys,

Main points I can find are:-

AWD: Slightly less power delivered due to losses.

RWD: Slightly faster assuming you don't spin the wheels.

Am I missing anything else important?

Looking @ this and it's a manual, and afaik all manuals are RWD? It's a terrible colour but it's cheap so if it's in decent condition it won't be a bad deal from what I can gather.

http://www.tradingpost.com.au/Automotive/U...ternalHotlink=1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274628-awd-vs-rwd/
Share on other sites
Midol Community Regular

Midol

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes, I will be heading to tracks but that'll just be for fun and to get my skills up a bit - nothing serious which probably matches the majority of those who head to tracks ;) Won't be doing too much modding, just the basics.

Already killing myself over the decision to spend money as I am saving for a home deposit so I want to make sure I fully understand what I am buying, not a big car person as of yet. I do like cars, but it's hard to get enthusiastic over a falcon...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274628-awd-vs-rwd/#findComment-4655177
Share on other sites
Midol Community Regular

Midol

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ahh, and given the sunshine coast has been raining almost as much as it did back in NZ lately handling in the wet should be a priority, also considering a move to the snowy mountains so it could be beneficial there.

Thanks, decision made. Auto it is (and subsequently AWD).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274628-awd-vs-rwd/#findComment-4655260
Share on other sites
mxfly Veteran

mxfly

Posted
Posted

Dont forget, AWD is not constant drive at all fours. 90% or even more of the time, it's running on RWD only. And even when the Atessa is activated, only a small percentage of power/torque is diverted to the front wheels. The R34 GT-R has a torque split meter and i can see that the rear wheels are driven most of the time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274628-awd-vs-rwd/#findComment-4655285
Share on other sites
iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted
Dont forget, AWD is not constant drive at all fours. 90% or even more of the time, it's running on RWD only. And even when the Atessa is activated, only a small percentage of power/torque is diverted to the front wheels. The R34 GT-R has a torque split meter and i can see that the rear wheels are driven most of the time.

Yep. RWD until the rears break traction, but I have had the torque meter (std RS option) in mine show ~400nm to the front at times.

So I don't think that it is a small percentage. If it was, my car would probably turn itself into a corkscrew at any given opportunity!

I sent these goons a message this morning telling them it's not a manual lol

5 speed semi-manual maybe but definatly not a 5 speed manual :dry:

Semi-auto perhaps.

If someone was selling me a car that was "semi-manual", I would expect an H pattern shift gate at the least!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274628-awd-vs-rwd/#findComment-4655316
Share on other sites
zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

if you intend to head to the track with it, id get a C34. its cheaper, better support for power mods, can get AWD manuals. the M35 to me isnt something youd take on the track, its auto, the box is a little sluggish (but that can be corrected) and there are cases of factory cars with bad cooling systems. anyway, thats not to say they shouldnt be on the track........

ohh yeah +1 for AWD, a little harder to get off the line, but good for powering out of corners in the wet :dry:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274628-awd-vs-rwd/#findComment-4655357
Share on other sites
mym35 Collaborator

mym35

Posted
Posted
Ahh, and given the sunshine coast has been raining almost as much as it did back in NZ lately handling in the wet should be a priority, also considering a move to the snowy mountains so it could be beneficial there.

Thanks, decision made. Auto it is (and subsequently AWD).

Michael,if you want to have a better look at a m35, i'm on the Sunshine Coast .I have a m35trx. We could get together if you would like.Mine is bog standard.( at the moment.) :dry:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274628-awd-vs-rwd/#findComment-4655391
Share on other sites
Midol Community Regular

Midol

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm sick as a dog right now but that'd be great if I could have a look in the near future.

zei, the track would mostly just be for fun. Not going for great times or anything, just a way to legally have some fun with my car :dry:

I was looking at this:

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=121B0AA05203

But they bloke didnt respond with a VIN yet. I think woodgrain is one of the most ugly things you do put in a car but I saw some carbon fibre replacement pieces (or was that for the m35) but regardless, it's an easy fix. Also asked him if he'd be willing to take it to a mechanic of my choice and again, no response.

Bis-e-bee, they don't respond to emails so I doubt they'll change it. I emailed asking a few questions and got no response so when I have the cash in hand I'll just visit them. I'm still wary as the prices they have seem to be lower than average.

---

I think I muddled this post, sorry about that. For some reason I am dizzy as hell and can't think straight. Yay for the flu.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274628-awd-vs-rwd/#findComment-4655438
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I'm not certain if the m35 system is the same, but certain the 32-34 systems don't just use wheelspin, in fact it is a minor input. the main ones are throttle position and lateral gs.....so if you floor it you will see and feel front torque in most conditions long before the wheels spin (if they ever do). Its about the best 4wd system around for road use, I'm sure 3x locked diffs is better for very serious off road but thats about it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274628-awd-vs-rwd/#findComment-4655630
Share on other sites
Midol Community Regular

Midol

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hmm flu = time off work :domokun:

Sure is :dry:

I do security (patrols) and a few of our clients are aged care homes. The flu + aged care homes = fail. Work isn't impressed with me calling in sick for unfortunately for them my health and the health of my workmates and the clients comes first. Whatever strain it is is contagious as all hell. The entire family came down with it, I recovered and then contracted it again.

I'm not certain if the m35 system is the same, but certain the 32-34 systems don't just use wheelspin, in fact it is a minor input. the main ones are throttle position and lateral gs.....so if you floor it you will see and feel front torque in most conditions long before the wheels spin (if they ever do). Its about the best 4wd system around for road use, I'm sure 3x locked diffs is better for very serious off road but thats about it

I was actually considering a 4x4 such as a Navara as my primary purpose of this car (as in the reason I am upgrading) is because my dog is destroying the back of my car but dog cages in a Ute make the tray useless so a wagon won out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274628-awd-vs-rwd/#findComment-4655652
Share on other sites
mxfly Veteran

mxfly

Posted
Posted

YOu can buy factory mesh so that your dog cant jump onto the rear seats from the boot area.

In regards to the torque split, yes I do notice on the GTR that you dont need to spin the rears to get action on the front. On the track it's more obvious around corners as well but the percentage of split was not that much. Perhaps im not driving hard enough..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274628-awd-vs-rwd/#findComment-4655686
Share on other sites
Midol Community Regular

Midol

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

He's gonna need a lot more than a barrier I think.

I'm getting a full stainless steel dog cage (removable) designed. Bolt in and out, that way when I dont have to cart him around I can remove it.

I'll try a simple barrier first, but I think his frustration will lead him to attempt to destroy anything that isn't metal.

ETA: Only the m35 has the glass removable bit on the boot doesn't it? Can't recall what it is called but you have two pieces and you can open the "front" one independently.

Edited by Midol
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274628-awd-vs-rwd/#findComment-4655693
Share on other sites
BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted
...

If someone was selling me a car that was "semi-manual"

...

Is that like when you've got a car that keeps jumping out of gear (automatically) when you're trying to drive it?

:P

I'm not certain if the m35 system is the same, but certain the 32-34 systems don't just use wheelspin, in fact it is a minor input. the main ones are throttle position and lateral gs.....so if you floor it you will see and feel front torque in most conditions long before the wheels spin (if they ever do). Its about the best 4wd system around for road use, I'm sure 3x locked diffs is better for very serious off road but thats about it

ATTESA-ETS is the good oil when it comes to AWD systems that aren't limited to 'sports sedans' like the WRX or EVO. It works wonderfully in the GT-R & Stagea alike, and they are cars designed for completely different jobs.

As much as I like punting around a spritely RWD, the grip (grin?) factor of the AWD in the Stagea is just great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274628-awd-vs-rwd/#findComment-4655859
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • joshuaho96
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • GTSBoy
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • GTSBoy
      new here

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...