Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just found that you can't have more than 20mil credits...scumbags ripped me off about 100k that last race.

Old news dude - get with the program

I found out about 10am yesterday :whistling:

But yeah - just go on a spending spree!!

Does anyone know if you get the same exp for enduros on A-Spec as you do for B-Spec? I'm doing the level 35 24 hr enduro B-Spec race and you have to do it about 7 times to reach level 40 :down: As if anyones going to do it that many times in A-Spec...?

Just checked up on my B spec drivers and here is my highest earner over the last few days, no one should ever be broke again with the remote feature.

Agreed.

I ran about 14-15 races yesterday with a full 16 driver grid (although 6 or them were mine).

$875k while at work is pretty handy.

im 5.5 hours into the le mans 24 hour b spec race and wow i love the time, night&dark etc this is awesome. but yea polyphony really do need to sort out the issues with the headlights. if u go to bumper cam/cockpit cam you cant see more than about 10 meters ahead, and im sorry but that just doesnt cut it when your doing 400kph+ you need realistic lighting. but thats about the only major gripe i have with this game. im sure its nothing they cant fix with a software update and they've ironed out most the other kinks in the game so far so hopefully this one isnt far off

Hehe I'm about 8.5 hours in - great minds think alike, hey?

Is yours a rainy race? Mine started with rain and hasn't changed. The Minolta can't use its huge power advantage in the wet, so unless I'm telling the driver to speed up, he drops pace and lets the others catch up. Hope I can build enough of a lead by tonight so that they can continue through the night without dropping a place.

Yes - there's no way I could drive these cars at night - the headlights are awful - even worse with the rain. Seriously needs to be addressed if I'm even going to bother with any night races / stages (including rally)

Edit: almost 10hrs in and all drivers pitted for intermediates. Guess that answers my question about variable weather.

Edited by warps

yeah the variable weather is awesome.. mine started out a fine sunny day then during the night it rained for a while but dried up by morning now i've just woken up and im less than an hour away from finishing but i've got oil light.. anyone else had oil issues late in 24 hour races?

Mine lasted a dozen laps on the intermediates then went back in for wets and stayed that way. I started another 24h race this morning - had 5 or 6 goes at starting a completely new race and all started with rain. Eventually decided to stick with it and they were all on intermediates. After 8 laps, all the cars came in for race tyres, even though it was still raining. Now all the cars are spinning off on every corner, so I brought my driver in for intermediates. He went back out and blitzed the field (taking over a minute off everyone each lap becasue he actually stays on the track) but the game keeps wanting to bring him back in for slicks on every lap. Farking stupid game!!!

Yes, my Toyota needed an oil change after the race (did an oil change and engine rebuild before the race started)

im curious wat the hell is the point in the car wash feature. during the race, it got dirty everywhere she was a mess, yet when i get out and look at it in the garage its clean as a whistle? so why would anyone use the car wash when it makes no difference whatsoever

I think that's meant to be damage along the right hand side of the car (I bounced off that many walls, the right hand side of the car was completely black). I notice that body damage seems to be represented with shadows, but the body shape doesn't actually change. Wings, nosecones etc deform as you damage your car, but the main body doesn't seem to.

My current 24h race has all of the cars bent and twisted at the front and back, thanks to them all running on slicks in the rain. Now it's pissing down again and they're all on full wets. Have yet to see any dry track at the Lemans 24h (although I'm only checking progress every couple of hrs through the day).

good point on the damage being black.

and i love how far the rear wings can deform and yet the car drives fine...lol

on that point im glad the damage isnt just gray and white scratches like many car games damage, shift for example. as much as the model of the crashing is better...those lines just look stupid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...