Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Build A Cheap Strong Fast Reliable Rb

dwest
 Share

Recommended Posts

dwest Contributor

dwest

Posted
Posted

This is a question many have asked.

I spent 2 years in Japan and before I went there I didnt even know how to change oil. All I did was turn wrenches for the Japanese in exchange for cheap cheap cheap parts. I once got an Rb26dett from a R33 for 400USD...

Anyways I was going on and on about my honda days when we used to build the crap out of a tin can and call it tuning, I did alot of watching back then.

I wanted to build a Rb25det and use the money from selling the 26 to achieve 500hp to the wheels with moderate cash less then 10kusd. Maybe around half of that.

I went on about forged this and upgraded that.

The Japanese guys scratched there head and said WHY!!!

They assured me a stock Rb25det on a stock headgasket was more then capable of 500hp. They said to add a accusump, and some injectors, a ebay turbo and tune and have fun...

I couldnt belive it but yes its true. How do I know? Because I did it and the engine is in my car right now. I blew the engine about 5 months ago but thats because I got boost happy and went up over 1.9 bar... oops my knock light got ignored because I wanted to teach a porche a lesson I won the fight lost the war.

Anyway back to the story. So here is what your RB can take relaibly:

RB20det: 350-400hp You will need a headgasket and might experiance lag of course you will need a turbo capable of getting you here along with a tune etc... But the engine itself is one of the strongest RB the Rb20det is stronger then both the Rb25 and 26... They just lack displacement.

RB25det anything under 550 is golden with this engine its solid as hell and has half the problems of its big brother the Rb26dett its just the Rb26dett has more upgrade potential and can strectched farther now the R33 versions are solid. The R34 versions have weaker blocks and the computer crap makes them a pain to tune.

The R32 have the oil starvation issue but before you go out buying Jun oil pumps and sumps and spending crazy money heres how the Japanese do it. Its called an Accusump it will cost you about 300usd that and a baffle and problem solved.

The Rb26dett is excellent in the R33 sturdy block, better design, usually lower mileage then the R32 version, less complicated then the R34 version and can be cross compatible with all Skyline chasis. There is no downside to this motor, in order to reach well over 600 the rods and pistons will have to go.

The engine can do 600 reliably with the right safety mods.

Accusump, baffle, huge oil cooler, GOOD TUNING!!! GOOD TUNING!!! GOOD TUNING!!! I cant stress that enough... Its all about your tune when going for big numbers dont practice on your baby go to a professional now your beater is a diffrent story...

This same information has been stressed before... You can do just fine with N1 oil pumps, and water pumps, you dont need Tomei, Jun, Greddy, they are overprices and good for another 1000rpm ooooh... An Rb is not an Sr it has the torque downlow to make you smile without high RPM...

Also for the Rb25det guys here is a little advice stay the hell away from high lift cams that take major head mods, the reason is because the Rb25det is stroked in a way to reject high lift cams even after the head is built up. For this reason you lose low end power and without a Jun oil pump ie 1500 dollars you will blow your motor to get the most out of your cams, 256 to 260 lift is more then enough...

If you feel you need 272's then its time for a Rb26dett... You lose power where it counts in a 25 with huge mods...

No need to stroke your Rb26 to an Rb28dett. Michia a freind in Japan has 900whp on an Rb26dett with just forgies and bolt ons and he has lost no torque and he doesnt have a jun oil pump or anything like it he uses an N1...

He also has poncams imagine that... He has 2 big twins and a GREAT TUNE!!!

Save yourself some money and spend the money where it counts... Support mods...

Research accusump it can be your best freind and save you thousands...

  • 3 weeks later...
WildZero Newbie

WildZero

Posted
Posted
Anyway back to the story. So here is what your RB can take relaibly:

RB20det: 350-400hp You will need a headgasket and might experiance lag of course you will need a turbo capable of getting you here along with a tune etc... But the engine itself is one of the strongest RB the Rb20det is stronger then both the Rb25 and 26... They just lack displacement.

OEM Nissan headgasket will be fine unless you want something thinner to raise compression..

The R32 have the oil starvation issue but before you go out buying Jun oil pumps and sumps and spending crazy money heres how the Japanese do it. Its called an Accusump it will cost you about 300usd that and a baffle and problem solved.

..Because controlling the amount of oil that gets pumped into the head has nothing to do with it.. :P

PhilKenSebben Community Regular

PhilKenSebben

Posted
Posted

+1

Particularly when they clearly have access to Jap parts for "cheap cheap cheap."

If I could get and RB26 for around $700 I'd probably wring its neck till it died then go get another one too....

  • 11 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...