Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well if they have to meet emissions targets...go for it!

At the end of the day, you have to have it's big brother to get one which is a smart idea. Makes it easy to say 'I drive an AM' and I think the resale will actually be pretty good because everyone that can't afford a proper AM will look for these on the 2nd hand market.

Just please don't make it look ugly which it does so far. Turbo it.

I really don't think it looks that bad. You need to remember this is a car built for fuel economy, safety and being aimed at the low cost small car market. Compared to other cars in the market it will be competitive against such as the Echo, Getz, Fiesta etc i think it outclasses them in terms of looks.

Although I don't particularly agree with the fact that in order to buy one, you need to already own an aston martin. I think thats a bad move

Edited by Baz
i guess there's a market for it...like any business they are taking the opportunity to make a $$$$$.

Speaking of opportunities to make $$$$, have you guys started filming home videos yet? I'll be happy to direct...

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks man, I appreciate that. I'll keep it in mind going forward, important to know.
    • I strongly recommend anyone playing with cars chasing anything electric, get a basic understanding of using a DMM, and about 12V DC systems. They're REALLY easy, you only need to know V=IR and how to apply it, and you can work out what your readings should be doing. For a simple check on a light bulb, you're looking for 12V at the positive to the light, a near zero resistance to ground, and then for a small resistance across the globe when unplugged. If one of those values isn't right, you won't get what you need. Now if they're all okay,and you then plug the light in, and it still won't work, you now do a voltage check across the globe positive to negative. It should effectively read full battery voltage. If it's not, especially if it's quite low, the age old V=IR starts to be able to be thought about, you now know though, for the current flowing, there isn't much voltage for the given resistance, but the rest of that V has to be dropping somewhere else. So now do a voltage check from ground of globe, to ground of car, then do voltage check from positive of battery, to positive of the light connector. Things like a high resistance in a wire/join will start to "steal" voltage on you. So now step back through which ever wire, until you find the voltage drop is non existent, you're now before what ever is steal your voltage for example.   There's plenty of YouTube videos, but really worth understanding some V=IR, and doing some even theoretical numbers to start to understand it. Then you'll know what the DMM is telling you.
    • Is Jackie home by Friday?
    • Item 10: Tech Edge wideband sensor interface and display. You’ll need to buy a new sensor. $150. Item 11: part of a Willians 5 point harness. $40 Item 12: OS88 gear display. No need for it now, my PPG sequential came with one. $30
×
×
  • Create New...