Jump to content
SAU Community

I Have Taken The Plunge

70RTY

By 70RTY,
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

Munro Experienced

Munro

Posted
Posted

And this is the reason I bought a JDM GTR. Willall Racing. Proffessional service, parts, & backup. I knew I could never leave the car standard (not with all the yummy bits available for the R35!) & was going to track race the car, so didnt see the point paying a bit more for ADM warranty only to have it voided.

Also, the JDM has the full launch (lunch!) control (is awesome fun), the CD slot (need help with that 70RTY - which one is source button?) & the JDM has a better resolution MFD. I also like how it talks to you in Japanese!

70RTY I saw your car advertised & think the lighter wheels look great with the white pearl paint. You have done well. Enjoy.

Sammy-qld Enthusiast

Sammy-qld

Posted
Posted
Sammy here is some more information on your transmission :P

The first picture is of the damaged seal in the Clutch Basket. This seal effectively holds the required shift pressure in the clutch pack, and when it fails (notice the tear in the outside of the seal?) the driving experience will be like driving a conventional manual with the clutch half depressed the whole time. This is not solely an early model issue, as the very same seal is used even in the current version of the GR6 transmission, and over time they will suffer these same kinds of issues. Failure is related to the manufacture of the seal itself and possibly the abrasive nature of the high zinc content GR6 factory transmission fluid.

seal1.jpg

Our replacement seal system (we have a full set for the GR6) uses a different engineering approach to achieve a very high precision and high durability seal that uses field proven high pressure technology to ensure a more effective long term and temperature resistant sealing process across many years. The Willall GR6 performance seal has a stiffer structure and more positive engagement combined with a long life cycle to provide the best performance ;)

seal2.jpg

Hey Martin

Thanks for the pictures. That gives me a much better idea of what happend. Seen pictures on Nagtroc with a guy in Bangkok who looked to have an almost exact part issue as this one. Looks like this GR6 transmission has some issues here and there even without launching. At least we got you to fix them if they blow up on us now :-)

It certainly did feel like changing gears with a manual with clutch half in. Slow clunky changes.

Can't wait to try out the new tranny fluid especially if its smoother. Damn can't wait to drive my car again LOL.

Just heard your shipping it back today or tomorrow. Will post some pictures once she's back on the road running with the new transmission cooler.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

congrats on the purchase. yeah john munro is right. getting a JDM R35 is worth it just to have a nice japanese female voice say good morning and goodnight each day and tell you what day of the week and what date it is! lol.

I wouldn't worry about the gearbox too much. the second R35 I bought in to aus went to giant on this forum and has seen more trackdays and rallys in this last year and a bit than most would see in a lifetime and it's held up fine. having said that the dealer that I stored the car at in japan before shipping did perform a 'gearbox system update' before it left which I understand is just a clutch map update or similar.

and yes, once it's run in have a go at launch mode. it's awesome. so much fun it should be illegal!

I have driven some very special cars lately (ford GT40 supercar, the new one, porche 911, latest m3, lambo gallardo etc) and can tell you none accelerate quite like the R35. some claim to have more power and less weight but somehow the GTR seems faster. it has plenty of power any time you need it. and you'll get used to the paddles and flipping down through each gear as you pull up from 5th or 6th for a second gear corner.

you are not missing too much with the bose system either. to my (basic) ear it was not amazing. and the basic system is not too bad. about on par for cars in it's bracket.

I see you have the basic silver wheels. I've hated them on just about every colour, but on the white they actually look quite nice. and dunlops are a good tyre, though on road the bridgestones did seem a little quieter and little less prone to tramline to me (i've had both).

as for the warranty the chances are if anything went badly wrong nissan would find a way to get out of it using some clause of abuse or misuse or your part or try and come to a 'compromise' with you to pay half knowing that if you ever chose to fight them in court you'd be up against a big legal team (Minter Ellison for nissan, look them up, and don't ask how I know that!!! lol).

The Cobb AP is a good little gadget and if you are not planning on taking mods any further than a chip and exhaust then it's probably the best option. get the cobb AP and a midpipe of some kind. if you are planning to get a little more serious in future then definitely consider the haltech platinum. it's a nice piece of gear and has many, many features that will be useful when winding up the wick.

Anyway, enjoy the car. they truly are an amazingly capable car for the money and are a great drive on the road and on the track.

ob1 Community Regular

ob1

Posted
Posted
While I was at J&S Autocare a guy with a tidy R34 GTT pulled in just to say hello - got to love the Skyline community!

hehehe, that was me. I was doing significantly more boring stuff (than playing with an r35) at the computer shop next door. Nice ride.

Skyspeed33 Apprentice

Skyspeed33

Posted
Posted

Amazing! I wish i was there when the guy at the servo asked if it was a real one. What sort of fuel figures did you get on they way home from Melbourne? Love the white body on silver wheels, its the combo i have with my R33 and black tint will finish it of nicely. Was it much of a hassle to get it registered? Enjoy!

70RTY Enthusiast

70RTY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

On the freeway it is easy to get a fuel consumption of 10L/100km if you are gentle with the throttle.

Getting it registered was actually fairly painless (except for stamp duty, THAT was painful) but I was well prepard with all the appropriate forms and paperwork etc filled out before I went into Qld transport. In addition to their forms they wanted to see RAWS compliance paperwork, contract of sale, evidence of CTP insurance as well as physically checking the VIN and engine number.

At this point in time, the car yard I purchased from are not considering getting in anymore R35s - I not sure if that is possible anymore.

  • 1 month later...
rehab2010 Proficient

rehab2010

Posted
Posted
yeah I think if you're going to mod it, well you might as well buy JDM and save $50k :whistling:

11 R35 GT-R currently on carsales website.

hmmm, maybe you should contact the two sellers selling their JDM's on carsales - they are both asking 185K, and it doesn't even include the on-road cost like stamp duty. This will end up more like $192,000 - that's quite steep if you ask me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...