Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I currently have a KU engineering FF Plenum on my RB20 and am fairly happy with its the job it is doing, however it is a cut and shut factory manifold.

The trouble I am having is that there is a crack on the #6 runner that is moving towards the injector hole on the manifold (factory part of the runners).

I could TIG weld it however the direction of the crack concerns me.

I have been thinking about getting a Greddy RB25 manifold (Genuine greddy) and adapting it. With Q45 TB to suit.

I do not run IAC or AAC so there is no issue there, and I have an aftermarket fuel rail (Which I am lead to believe will still work with my SARD injectors on the greddy manifold).

I also DO NOT run heater lines etc under the manifold and my turbo is a Trust oil cooled only unit which takes out a level of complexity.

The other option is a stock R32 GTR manifold and ITB's. The car runs a RB26 R33 D-Jetro ECU therefore I have the GTR air temp sensor already installed.

Can anyone confirm that the Greddy option has been done on an RB20? I have seen RB26 done, howerver I was hoping that by chance the RB25 manifold will somewhat bolt upto the RB20 (silvertop) without the use of a spacer plate?

If that is not the case I will have to have a billet adapter made.

But if the Greddy unit is an easier option I will probably go this route instead of the RB26 unit.

Here is a pic of my current setup.

SDC10155.jpg

-Ignore the Z32 \ Grex Filter that is now long gone :yes:

SDC10161.jpg

Thanks in advance

-Jez

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277696-rb20det-intake-manifold-conundrum/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

weld the crack up. if your worried about the crack reopening in the same direction drill a small hole either end of the crack and then weld it all up.

see if it holds up, id be doing that before buying a new manifold?

+1 on that.

Definitely weld it up. Why did it crack in the first place? and are you certain it's a crack and not just a casting mark?

Well i have a Plazmaman manifold laying at my place. My car is still at the panel shop and i am still working in India. So if you want to trial it on your car to see if its better then what you already have. Either buy your own or just buy one and replace mine. We can come to some arrangement.

Personally, i think that multi throttles are the way to go but the GTR ID is too big which means $$$$ to get smaller throttle bodies

Oh wait i think i see the problem!!!! you need an excuse to buy a new fancy perfect manifold...

Yep it's F*cked if you leave it the crack will enlarge and cause your left tire to explode. Very dangerous, i would suggest a custom jobby. that RIPS one sounds nice?

....If I wanted to be patronised I wold have asked.

Think about it for a second, crack moving towards the injector hole, I can try to stop it from growing but if that fails, and one day out of no where fuel starts pissing out all over the place, well Im sure you have seen what can happen.

However, you are partially correct, now is the perfect time to spend some cash on a part which I think could cause me some serious grief down the track, and why not spend the cash on something as exciting as a GTR multi throttle setup.

Not all Skyline owners are povo's who work at their cousins *insert random takeawawy shop* to pay for fuel to rip up the princes highway on a friday night.

Now please show yourself the door to my thead.

Roy, are they the ones that use the stock bottom half of the runners and replace the top half (literally a bolt on)? I am not so sure I want to go that direction, however if I cant fix what I have now, I might get back to you and see what we can sort out for the interium. Cheers!!!

AC, Im taking the manifold off today to take to be looked at by someone who can potentially fix it :)

If I can get the crack sorted some time this week I will probably take the car down to my tuners for another touch up and talk options then, I was just hoping someone with past experience would pick up this thread and spark some ideas.

The crack appeared a while ago and I thought it was just a casting mark, it has since grown. The part that failed was the factory part of the intake. I have had the intake for nearly 2 years now, pretty sure it would be out of warranty anyway.

CBF getting a replacement when I can:

1. Weld it

2. upgrade

Got put onto this thread: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/307325

However, there is nothing solid in there, no dyno comparisons or anything really solid to go on.

Might be worth some back to back testing to see if RB26 is worthwhile, expensive exercise, but Im used to being a guinea pig.

I was simply making a light hearted joke, you were supposed to laugh! :P

Really the answer is obvious, you are not asking for information how to fix it because you did not post up any image of the crack.

what can you expect? I told you how you should weld it up to prevent cracking in the same direction.

You will notice the factory runners are cast and quite thick so i would advise you remove a small amount of material around the crack with a sharp tipped die grinder. then get a competent welder to fill er up, then drill two holes either end of the weld and weld them up.

There is the full story. I told you basically that before the rest was obvious.

If you did not want advice on fixing it then i suggest you should have called the topic 'New manifold options for RB20'.

My posts were for your benefit only.

Edited by GT-RZ

Cheers ears.

I have given it to a professional to take care of. Should have it back tomorrow.

I was always going to fix it, but the conundrum is if I should invest in a better setup in the long term. :banana:

This was also inspirational...

pandaexpress2001.jpg

pandaexpress002.jpg

pandaexpress001.jpg

IMG_1058.jpg

IMG_1071.jpg

IMG_1075.jpg

Cheers ears.

I have given it to a professional to take care of. Should have it back tomorrow.

I was always going to fix it, but the conundrum is if I should invest in a better setup in the long term. :)

This was also inspirational...

pandaexpress2001.jpg

pandaexpress002.jpg

pandaexpress001.jpg

IMG_1058.jpg

IMG_1071.jpg

IMG_1075.jpg

this is a beautifullllllll set up i will also try it on my rb20, i was thinking of the conversion for some time now :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...