Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have heard notional figures of AU$45k for the transmission and AU$75k for the engine (new prices) regardless of IF they can be purchased. Not that you would buy a crate motor for $75k (if you could) you would instead build something better etc.

If you have need of one and can get it cheap, grab it!

LSX-438, happen to know what a set of brakes are? Endless do a sweet adaptor kit to fit them to an older series R32/33/34 GTR.

If you were to ask for a complete OEM Nissan pad and rotor swap, i believe it will be in the vicinity of $8000 to $10,000 (and that doesnt include calipers nor lines). A full brake system would surely be $20k or more. This is for ordinary cast iron & cross drilled rotors mind you. However most people are buying aftermarket pads and rotors, which are about half these prices (and better spec too). If you have an OEM motor/gearbox/brake system and want to offload it, PM me please.

If you have an OEM motor/gearbox/brake system and want to offload it, PM me please.

I wish...

I asked the question to see if it would be worth buying the R35 calipers themselves along with some Endless adaptors and some aftermarket discs. That would be a sweet stopping package for a 200kg lighter older series GTR (like mine).

Sorry, off topic.

If you were to ask for a complete OEM Nissan pad and rotor swap, i believe it will be in the vicinity of $8000 to $10,000 (and that doesnt include calipers nor lines). A full brake system would surely be $20k or more. This is for ordinary cast iron & cross drilled rotors mind you. However most people are buying aftermarket pads and rotors, which are about half these prices (and better spec too). If you have an OEM motor/gearbox/brake system and want to offload it, PM me please.

So if something like this was to be wrecked you might be interested in some parts?

gtr01.jpg

gtr02.jpg

expensive.. weeeeee

Hey idiot, leave the stupid comments out of the thread - their not welcome here.

Judging by the posts it looks as though you're trying to get your post count up - typical. You're not contributing anything at all,

eg

Exhibit 1

Exhibit 2

Exhibit 3

:) :) :)

Don't reply with shit that doesn't contribute!!

good luck with trying to get it over here mate....im sure if you did, youd basically be able to name your price on anything in it....plus the running gear would be an awesome retro fit into something like a 240/260z :P

yes we looked at buying it must be 6 months ago or more now. hopefully it's been well stored and is still in good condition. I thought it sold on ebay US?

the stuff is only worth what someone is willing to pay. but consider you could buy a wreck in japan for around $40K (or less) and import that as a parts car and I'd consider very carefully before you spend any decent time or money bringing it out here hoping to get $100K+ for all the bits.... JDM wreck would also be more desirable as it's RHD. also, that car was pretty heavily crashed, there have been a few wrecks around with less damage going for pretty fair money.

good luck with trying to get it over here mate....im sure if you did, youd basically be able to name your price on anything in it....plus the running gear would be an awesome retro fit into something like a 240/260z :P

Oh my young friend.... if only you knew how difficult that task would be. You'd swear these 35's have a brain of their own, they know what you're doing to them, even without a battery in them! lol

good luck with trying to get it over here mate....im sure if you did, youd basically be able to name your price on anything in it....plus the running gear would be an awesome retro fit into something like a 240/260z :)

someone do that please!!!

i couldn't see that black wreck fetching more than 25k

are you in the states? if not id get someone who has half a mechanical brain to check it out, and id assume with the new GTR a multimeter would come in handy to check all the electrics.

someone do that please!!!

i couldn't see that black wreck fetching more than 25k

are you in the states? if not id get someone who has half a mechanical brain to check it out, and id assume with the new GTR a multimeter would come in handy to check all the electrics.

Being done ...

I might just bring the engine, transmission and brakes over and see how things go from there. It's all that's really useful on the black one.

Dude. Just put a price on it & see what happens. No-one here will put there hand up unless you put your balls on the wall & see what happens. Looks like a gamble to me. These things are that fast I dont think it will be long before we see a few local ones on the market like that (of course I hope not - but lets wait & see)

20 years to catch up? Hmmm. Didnt see Porsche at Bathurst 20 years ago. (But I was too busy drag racing Holdens back then to care anyway!!!)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...