Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There are too many things to see exactly what you did thar! Possibilities:

-an hypothetical 9.11 crown/pinion ratio resulting in some ridiculously short gear ranges

-a 911S Carrera with a nice rear-mounted engine and a decimal point typo to boot

-a 9.11 second pass will pin you like glue to the seat

-a 9.11 second enema should give you a push back in the seat feeling

-a 9.11 long rod in the same place will have no problems doing this...struggling to find my unit of measurement though

:thumbsup:

That's a few good pointers.

Torque + small weight + short gear ratios = throw back in your seat feeling.

Big displacement V8 plus some altered diff ratios for the win :P

On that note one of the quickest feeling factory Jap cars IMO is a TT Soarer. When those two babies kick in you know about it - very non-linear power delivery.

LOL!

Just from my own experience as my R32 GTR came with a HKS twin plate and I was still getting use the friction point and I revved to about 4000 RPM (So I would not stall it) and as so as it engaged I was pushed back into my seat LOL!

Yes jase-r34 I am sure there are other cars as well, I am just speaking from experience :P

It's because you didn't expect it! :)

I reckon 9.11s in the rear end would give you a great torque multiplier and the push back in the seat feeling?

auto awd 250rwkw Stagea pushes you back in the seat when applying power

its a really awesome feeling - only problem being the "timing" due to the auto control, cant find the right zone to tromp it all the time

but when it hooks up wow the power, the acceleration, the rev/speed needles, good g-forces into the seat (so much so I replaced stock driving seat for gripy D1 Saas seat)

but besides buying a 20k R32 GTR (or 10k 1997 Stagea) and throwing 30k onto it, the next best thing is a bike.

just picked up this ZX-9R for 5g on ebay 2 weeks ago.

sweet

no knees hurts, but sweet.

jamned on braided lines, carbon bits, black bubble screen, jetkit, Art pipe, rearsets

bikezx9r.jpg

my cbr900rr with rebuilt suspension/engine with flatslides was a monster, insane acceleration from 0 all way to 300 + (6th gear 10,000 rpm)

saving for a 3-4mm oversize piston kit for the zx-9r, taking it out to 974 or 998 will unleash the beast within.

to me, having 300rwkw would be great day in day out, to feel really insane tho you cant beat a tricked-up 1litre sports bike for sheer flat-out 'ball-gripping" gforce & cornering glory

I reckon its the 1st - 2nd change in a GTR that really puts you back in the seat... ripping 2nd gear at 8500rpm... no wheelspin just bang, grip

powerful RWD cars usually have a little wheel spin on the 1st - 2nd change that softens the blow a bit, they tend to 'walk' around a bit trying to find traction... the GTR hits harder, its more violent

bikes are in another league though... in a straight line there is no quicker way to travel...................... to the hospital lol

It's because you didn't expect it! :)

I reckon 9.11s in the rear end would give you a great torque multiplier and the push back in the seat feeling?

9.11s..?
Did you not see what I did there? :thumbsup:

There are too many things to see exactly what you did thar! Possibilities:

-an hypothetical 9.11 crown/pinion ratio resulting in some ridiculously short gear ranges

-a 911S Carrera with a nice rear-mounted engine and a decimal point typo to boot

-a 9.11 second pass will pin you like glue to the seat

-a 9.11 second enema should give you a push back in the seat feeling

-a 9.11 long rod in the same place will have no problems doing this...struggling to find my unit of measurement though

GTR + 4000RPM (or more) launch = Obliterate anything off the line.

^^ not quite...but still ok.

My mates capri feels pretty good i must say...makes my 9.5 feel like a nugget.

1.1 in the 60ft...has now gone 7.34 @ 186....soon to go 6's.

Edited by ezy_09s
^^ not quite...but still ok.

My mates capri feels pretty good i must say...makes my 9.5 feel like a nugget.

1.1 in the 60ft...has now gone 7.34 @ 186....soon to go 6's.

LOL!

Modified drag cars will obliterate anything.

  • 2 weeks later...

for aggressive acceleration, i'd say 2009 BMW M3...probally out of your price range though :/ ... but its got crazy torque and 'pushback' .... i had a massive grin on my face the whole time while riding in it. :down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...