Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

slip them a fifty!!!!!!!... YOu will find the world revolves around money (well at least most human lives anyway)!!! You will find all your problems will Disappear... NOTE: Also works with corrupt traffic police, just be careful about the manner you go about it (to avoid being done for bribeing police officer)!!!!!!

Well I just got my car through Regency on the 2nd attempt. From my experience, so long as you fix everything from the first time round you should go through easy. The first inspector I had was a bit of a bastard. The second guy I had was real nice and laid back. Seems luck of the draw. Now I better head to the garage to start puttin back all the aftermarket bits again .... *grin*

has anyone have to have an exempt from complance plate(road worthy check) done?? what kinda stuff will they check? i have a few bushes that needs replacing? will they be harsh on that kinda stuff? a 1-2 oil soked seals. 1 ripped boot on my steerinig rack? is any of that stuff a major thing to get thro a road worthy?? whats the best thing to do with th turbo timer? should i hide it in the dash some how or have it taken out?

  • 3 weeks later...
I doubt a cop opening your bonnet roadside without a search warrant is legal? Can anyone comment on that?

TEp they can look up your ass if they want dude don't kid yourself, if they can make a dollar from you they will, if you want to get away with something go commit a real crime.

just took my WA registered GTR through Regency to get SA plates, no problems at all. Now they have separated the "full pit inspection shed" from the "identity check shed". The new shed is a few blocks away, and i found everyone there to be pretty cool.

Basically you go to the main office, get your forms and they tell you to take the car to the new inspection location. Once its checked you go back to the main office and process the forms and get your plates.

I made everything as stock as i could. I was surprised that no request to remove the kickpanel was made. No inspection of the turbos was made either (you can clearly see HKS on them). He had a quick look at the tyres, had dished jap 18's on, and that was it. Basically for the ID check i would say theres nothing to worry about so long as you remove the obvious mods.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hah, just took my car (not a skyline, but we are all brothers in the japanese car game ;D) down there. There was like 4 guys looking at it and writing crap down. Apparently the "This is not a roadworthiness inspection" they write on the back of the form is a load of crap.

Non-compliant engine fitted

Emissions to comply with ADR

Steering wheel

So, what does "Non compliant engine fitted" mean, and how do I fix it? Also, I didn't think we did emission tests in SA, is there a place anyone knows of that can adjust my ECU to make it emission legal, and test it on the spot? The car has a haltech. Luckily they couldn't find it.

Also, there are only a couple of items, in anyones experience, if I take it down for an inspection will they screw me for more stuff? I of course have a bigger intercooler (A-spec one is like an air-con radiator) and piping, larger turbo, the stock air box has been moved. Additionally the wheels are not the standard wheels, although not much bigger, and the suspension is different. Do they ping you for strut tower braces? What about a/m shocks? It has koni's, but surely shocks aren't a big deal?

So, because I was defected at the inspection centre and not by a cop, will they be softer on me? I thought regency was a punishment.. but maybe it's just a great big revenue raiser. Maybe I'll move to WA. Pah.

Ha, when I was there a guy had a van they defected for tint. It was crazy, they even said he could paint the windows over or have curtains, but tinting them was illegal. Man, f**k transport SA and their revenue raising.

Sounds like you are in a world of pain.

Emissions testing is BIG DOLLARS, pass or fail.

If you fail, same price again next time.

By non compliant engine fitted, do the numbers match the car?

Has it had an engine transplant?

Getting it through with an aftermarket turbo is going to be virtually impossible.

Also, just because it's not on the list this time, doesn't mean they won't pick it up next time. I know someone who went to regency to have 3 defects cleared, and had another 10 added.

Probably not the news you were hoping for.

Yes, but the answer I was expecting. It's ok, I have the stock tiny turbo, just need to get a fitting kit. Are you in adelaide chops? I didn't think SA's emission testing was as expensive. The engine numbers match the rego, I made sure of that before I bought the car, but it is a low km import engine. Pretty sure that the J engines have the same codes as the A.

Yeah, it is a big world of pain. My beautiful car.. defected! Bahhhhhhh

Your best bet may be to sell the car to a wrecker and start again.

Your car needs to be STOCK when you next go back to Regency, otherwise they will only hit you with more defects. That includes the engine, intercooler, steering wheel, turbo, ecu etc. If it isnt they will only send you off with a bigger list of defects.

If you can make it all stock and get it through, then you could refit the good bits on again.

As far as I am aware there in no-one in SA (well perhaps Mitsubishi) that can perform the emissions test you require to an adequite standard. It isnt even worth considering this path.

Are you seriously telling me that if they have hit me with "emissions to comply with ADR" they have #$@ed me in the arse? If this is the case I am going to spew blood at my member of parliament. How can they have the authority to require me to spend $3000, repeatedly, to get my car registered? Has anyone here got slapped with emissions before?

Selling this car to a wrecker would be a massive loss! I wonder if my insurance covers "regency being unreasonable", causing the car to be written off?

You have a car with a non standard engine fitted.

If this were done in SA, in order to get it registered with that engine, you would have to prove it complied with the emissions standards applicable to that vehicle.

It's one of the perils of doing engine swaps unfortunately.

What car did the current engine come out of?

If this car was sold in Australia, then there would be emissions data for the STOCK engine (including stock intake and exhaust) that may satisfy the requirements.

If not, it will be very hard and costly.

What's the car worth?

I'd say you're looking at the best part of $10k to get it on the road in SA unfortunately.

Possibly the easiest/cheapest way would be to buy another stock one, swap all the bits over to get it on the road, then go from there.

i would just make it look as stock as possible, go back and ask them to explain what it all mean and what you have to do, Nicely!!!

thay might scrap some and hit you for more easily fixed ones.

once they defected me for no air pump, extactors, non compiant mags, brakes and too low!

went back diddnt change a thing and he let me off for all of them!, mind you it took me 4 times to get threw with my exhaust, in the end they diddnt charge me till i passed... [he told me to pack steel wool in the mufler] i got a young dude, was telling me what to do to get a 13bt thew aswell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...