Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Seen a few threads on here but really just wanted some clarification from the experts and I know that the GT3076R is quite a popular upgrade for an rb25.

Looking at putting one on myself, but there's 2 different options.

Apparently Garrett released a GT3076R part no (774067-5001) and it has a T04S 4" bellmouth comp housing, specs below -

Turbo Family: GT30

Turbine Inducer: 60.0mm

Compressor Inducer: 55.0mm

Compressor Exducer: 76.0mm

Compressor A/R: 0.70

Turbine A/R: 0.82

Bearing Type: Ball Bearing

Bearing Cooling: Oil & Water

Pic listed on their site for this particular turbo -

photophp.jpg

And then there is the other Garrett option - GT3076R (aka HKS3037S) part no (700177-7)

Turbo Family: GT30

Turbine Inducer: 60.00mm

Compressor Inducer: 57.00mm

Compressor Exducer: 76.2mm

Compressor A/R: 0.60

Turbine A/R: 0.82

Bearing Type: Ball Bearing

Bearing Cooling: Oil & Water

post-9594-1163673630.jpg

Very slight variances apart from the 0.70 A/R compared to 0.60...

I can get the first one for around 1650, and the one with the anti surge (700177-7) comp housing for about $300.00 more..

Going a .82 ext gate option, has anyone tried the first one? and results?

Edited by evsr31

The part number for the port shrouded turbocharger one is 700382-12 , 700177-7 is its cartridge number - basically the center section with both end housings removed .

This is my opinion based on my research and hundreds of peoples findings all over .

The surge ported one has the more modern compressor wheel and is the same era technology as its turbine wheel . What people call the S wheel is a "T" series wheel designed to work with T era turbines .

That aside the cheaper one with the "S" compressor has a larger bulkier heavier compressor housing so it's a bit more difficult to package . If nothing else weight and bulk are best avoided where possible .

There are a lot of reasons why the surge ported GT3076R is the superior unit and there is a weeks worth of reading on this site just on these units .

It the cost was the only criteria you buy the cheaper one - and regret it ever after . $300 is a tidy sum of money but it's chicken feed compared to buying an inferior turbocharger and having to right the wrong . Those wise to the topic won't want to buy the inferior turbo no matter how new it is and the only cost recovery strategy is selling to a newbie or cost cutting to get rid of it . So lets just say you resell a now "used" turbo for several hundreds less than you paid for it and have to wear the cost of the new more exy better turbo .

So with the real GT3076R you get a better compressor wheel in a lighter more compact compressor housing AND you can use any of the available Garrett or HKS GT30 turbine housing sizes ranging from 0.61 A/R to 1.12 A/R and it shouldn't surge .

Search GT3076R and GT3037 and take note of people who have real world experience because they've been there done that .

I'm cooking up , if I can source the bits , a slight variation of the GT3076R which is all Garrett parts and no sneaky back yard BS . If you can wait a little while we'll see if it gives the desired results . If not buy the real GT3076R and know you have one of the better "GT30" family BB turbo options .

Over to you , cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03

Cheers mate, I was hoping that you would post in this thread. That has cleared up everything.

I will be going a .82 ext garrett housing, supporting mods (z32 afm, 600cc squirts, 38mm gate) and eventually cams to help with the lag issue that would probably be expected with the bigger .82 housing.

just to give you an idea my 3076 hits full boost (19psi) around 3600-3800 depending on load. may sound laggy but it really isnt once you drive it. down low i actually prefer it to the stock turbo. mynes on stock manifold with internal gate btw, so with a good manifold and external gate you should decent boost even earlier

I just bought myself this a few weeks ago.

32160820069_large.jpg

32160820071_large.jpg

Some people i have been speaking to in the SA section say that this turbo is too big for a RB25, and that it is going to be real laggy. But i wont really know for a few weeks till i have it installed. That is the 0.82 rear housing i think, it has it stamped inside somewhere.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

I got mine on a few weeks ago, see's full boost around 4k rpm. It is running 15psi and the car is making 265rwkw, boost hits pretty hard....love it. As it is spooling sounds like a jet.

full boost at 4k sounds abit laggy

is it an internal gate

when i had the internal .73ar it was laggy but still full boost before then

with my external mine hits 18psi around 3200 - 3500 (.82ar) and thats with a .5 bar spring with the gain turned up on the EBC to crack at 14psi

so its way more responsive then the internal gate

I think it will get better still when I put in the 1 bar spring

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
    • Oh nah, S55 doesn't eat bearings, just the crank hub slips lol.
    • When’s the tow ball on the 33 coming? 🙃
    • I welcome any basic question that can help haha. Yes it has 2 unis but the driveshaft is a one piece and the unis are welded without a slip yoke at each end.   What's funny is anytime I've ever had wheel vibrations it's always been in the front so I automatically assume it will lead to steering wheel shake and not chassis vibration. With that being said, I never considered looking at my rear wheel balance... I have doubts though as this wasn't an issue before I pulled the motor and trans but is still very much worth a look. I'll do that tonight after work. Thanks. 
×
×
  • Create New...