Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt3076r Specifications - Clarification Needed

evsr31

By evsr31,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

evsr31 Collaborator

evsr31

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Guys,

Seen a few threads on here but really just wanted some clarification from the experts and I know that the GT3076R is quite a popular upgrade for an rb25.

Looking at putting one on myself, but there's 2 different options.

Apparently Garrett released a GT3076R part no (774067-5001) and it has a T04S 4" bellmouth comp housing, specs below -

Turbo Family: GT30

Turbine Inducer: 60.0mm

Compressor Inducer: 55.0mm

Compressor Exducer: 76.0mm

Compressor A/R: 0.70

Turbine A/R: 0.82

Bearing Type: Ball Bearing

Bearing Cooling: Oil & Water

Pic listed on their site for this particular turbo -

photophp.jpg

And then there is the other Garrett option - GT3076R (aka HKS3037S) part no (700177-7)

Turbo Family: GT30

Turbine Inducer: 60.00mm

Compressor Inducer: 57.00mm

Compressor Exducer: 76.2mm

Compressor A/R: 0.60

Turbine A/R: 0.82

Bearing Type: Ball Bearing

Bearing Cooling: Oil & Water

post-9594-1163673630.jpg

Very slight variances apart from the 0.70 A/R compared to 0.60...

I can get the first one for around 1650, and the one with the anti surge (700177-7) comp housing for about $300.00 more..

Going a .82 ext gate option, has anyone tried the first one? and results?

Edited by evsr31
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted (edited)

The part number for the port shrouded turbocharger one is 700382-12 , 700177-7 is its cartridge number - basically the center section with both end housings removed .

This is my opinion based on my research and hundreds of peoples findings all over .

The surge ported one has the more modern compressor wheel and is the same era technology as its turbine wheel . What people call the S wheel is a "T" series wheel designed to work with T era turbines .

That aside the cheaper one with the "S" compressor has a larger bulkier heavier compressor housing so it's a bit more difficult to package . If nothing else weight and bulk are best avoided where possible .

There are a lot of reasons why the surge ported GT3076R is the superior unit and there is a weeks worth of reading on this site just on these units .

It the cost was the only criteria you buy the cheaper one - and regret it ever after . $300 is a tidy sum of money but it's chicken feed compared to buying an inferior turbocharger and having to right the wrong . Those wise to the topic won't want to buy the inferior turbo no matter how new it is and the only cost recovery strategy is selling to a newbie or cost cutting to get rid of it . So lets just say you resell a now "used" turbo for several hundreds less than you paid for it and have to wear the cost of the new more exy better turbo .

So with the real GT3076R you get a better compressor wheel in a lighter more compact compressor housing AND you can use any of the available Garrett or HKS GT30 turbine housing sizes ranging from 0.61 A/R to 1.12 A/R and it shouldn't surge .

Search GT3076R and GT3037 and take note of people who have real world experience because they've been there done that .

I'm cooking up , if I can source the bits , a slight variation of the GT3076R which is all Garrett parts and no sneaky back yard BS . If you can wait a little while we'll see if it gives the desired results . If not buy the real GT3076R and know you have one of the better "GT30" family BB turbo options .

Over to you , cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03
evsr31 Collaborator

evsr31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers mate, I was hoping that you would post in this thread. That has cleared up everything.

I will be going a .82 ext garrett housing, supporting mods (z32 afm, 600cc squirts, 38mm gate) and eventually cams to help with the lag issue that would probably be expected with the bigger .82 housing.

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

just to give you an idea my 3076 hits full boost (19psi) around 3600-3800 depending on load. may sound laggy but it really isnt once you drive it. down low i actually prefer it to the stock turbo. mynes on stock manifold with internal gate btw, so with a good manifold and external gate you should decent boost even earlier

Aberax Grand Master

Aberax

Posted
Posted

I just bought myself this a few weeks ago.

32160820069_large.jpg

32160820071_large.jpg

Some people i have been speaking to in the SA section say that this turbo is too big for a RB25, and that it is going to be real laggy. But i wont really know for a few weeks till i have it installed. That is the 0.82 rear housing i think, it has it stamped inside somewhere.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Aberax Grand Master

Aberax

Posted
Posted

I got mine on a few weeks ago, see's full boost around 4k rpm. It is running 15psi and the car is making 265rwkw, boost hits pretty hard....love it. As it is spooling sounds like a jet.

Haines Rising Star

Haines

Posted
Posted

full boost at 4k sounds abit laggy

is it an internal gate

when i had the internal .73ar it was laggy but still full boost before then

with my external mine hits 18psi around 3200 - 3500 (.82ar) and thats with a .5 bar spring with the gain turned up on the EBC to crack at 14psi

so its way more responsive then the internal gate

I think it will get better still when I put in the 1 bar spring

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...