Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car is back form Hyperdrive and he made 225whp on 8-12psi.

Ive STILL got the same boost curve, me and Andrew have no idea why the boost is going the way it is. Maybe the dump is too restrictive at the wastegate flap, dunno. Also, it was starting to lean out on the top end, so i cant really be bouncing off the limiter cos I have a fuel pressure problem! It's fine as it is, but if i was to make any more power from it (which im not) i would need to install an aftermarket fuel rail and an FPR.

I think if i got any more power out of this setup, id need to do internal upgrades anyway...

Keep in mind the awd drivetrain sucks a lot of power, and that stock these cars make about 90hp at the wheels.

Here's some dyno charts for ya'll. Note the increase over the old VG30 turbo!

P1000847.jpg

P1000848.jpg

P1000850.jpg

The car is savage now! 225hp might not sound like much to all you skylines owners, but it translates to instant wheelspin in 2nd gear and torque steer from hell! Even in AWD mode!

NOW its fun.

I'll post up an in car video soon for you guys!

Cam.

  • Replies 236
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

is the car auto or manual ? wouldn't of thought 225hp would give instant wheel spin in 2nd unless you have shitty tyres.

not trying to bag you out, awesome project ! :D

you'll have to take it down the drags, I would expect a high 14 or low 15, how much does the xtrail weigh ?

is the car auto or manual ? wouldn't of thought 225hp would give instant wheel spin in 2nd unless you have shitty tyres.

not trying to bag you out, awesome project ! smile.gif

you'll have to take it down the drags, I would expect a high 14 or low 15, how much does the xtrail weigh ?

thanks man!

Yeah the 225whp isnt much, but remember thats at 4 wheels! so at the motor its making alot more.

The x-trail weighs 1390kgs fully laden, so id be expecting a low 14 maybe even a 13...

And yeah its manual...

Got a couple videos of the hektic flutter and a sting from 80kms in 3rd :P

doesn't realli do it justice, but the spool noise is pure sex! Puts me back too!

pretty stoked with it's performance now, breaks complete traction through 2nd gear and torque steers something cronic through 3rd! 170km/h comes along way too fast!!!

  • 1 month later...

Yeah man no kidding!

Andrew assures me its a safe tune and its gonna be good for engine logevity, but I'd still love for it to be cleaned up. 11.8 down to 11.5 on redline would be very nice.

I'm going lean @13psi cos of a fuel pressure problem, I'm in the process of researching options for a returnless but still boost referenced fuel system. The injectors and pump are fine, its the stock FPR/regulation thingo that its causing the troubles...

Thanks for the comments!

Off topic, changed my opinion on wheels, I've found a decent place in Perth (Tech9 Tyres) that sell BLACK DRIFT TEKS! I don't give a crap if they're fake, they have the Koya brand name on them and they seem legit!

koya_driftek_BLK-266x266.jpg

18" x 8.5" Drift Teks it is!! Can't wait (just need more funds :))

I've found a set of 18 x 8.5 brand new with tyres of my choice for $2050

http://www.tech9tyres.com.au/index.php/whe...rift_tek_black/

They're probably copies, but I couldn't care less.

Could be, but i doubt a wheel and tyre place would sell fakes and market them as real. They couldn't get away with it.

I plan on paying more for decent tyres anyway so i dunno how much just yet...

Not really too much to report. Got my oil leak and burning oil problem fixed. The oil drain was leaking from under the turbo and where it goes back into the block. Got a stainless braided -12 line :D

Now doesn't leak or burn any oil! engine bay smells like engine now, instead of burning oil. haha

Saving up some coin for my wheels, tyres, and coil overs ATM.

Waiting for my tax return to go through, then I'll get my Drift Teks and tyres.

Then need a bit more coin for my coilovers, $2600 including installation, dump it and set up for nice balanced handling - no more under steer!

Then my long term (12 months) list involves:

-New rear diff, 4wd system is f**ked.

-Body work: paint the front bar, fix up rear passenger side door from when the car fell off jacks haha

-Different dump pipe: To fix boost creep.

-Install fuel pressure regulator: fix leaning out at top end.

-Boost controller to run just under a bar of boost. nice FLAT 12psi would be ideal.

-200awkw tune :)

I'll post pics of my wheel ASAP! cant wait.

  • 1 month later...
dude it needs cold air intake on ur pod, youll get some extra power, that pod is sucking in hot air

Yah good spot, been trying to figure something out, but almost anything i try will involve a battery re-location, which is a paint in the cvnt...

Should even be able to direct it down towards the ground and beside the radiator, and pick up cold(er) air from behind the bumper...

Need some advice from people.

What options do ya think I have for cold air intakes?

This is what I have atm, knocked it up with $25 and 10 minutes, not meant to be a work of art:

IMG_0132.jpg

option 1: The red drawing, direct the piping over the battery and down to just behind the left headlight.

option 2: the white drawling, direct the piping down, towards the ground

IMG_0134.jpg

IMG_0133.jpg

note: option 2 will direct the air filter here:

IMG_0135.jpg

Any suggestions?

Cam.

Problem with going that low is if you go through a puddle and suck up water, not good :touch:

Its not that hard to relocate the battery though? Probably the best and easiest way. Otherwise the red one would be my second choice with a cold air pipe from the bottom of the bumper.

Hey bros!

Got my new wheels on Saturday :D

They are 18" x 8.5" +34 Koya Drift Teks with 235/50 rubber on them.

The tyres aren't the best I know, even though I was recommended Achilles by Tech9Tyres, they speak highly of them, I've heard bad things about them... They came with the package so I didn't really have an option.

However I've noticed a massive increase in traction, I can hold traction completely in 3rd gear now, and I've lost heaps of my understeer from those old shitty h/t khumos. That's prob due to the 20mm more i have on all corners.

The only thing I havn't sussed out is the wet traction or the wear pattern (obviously). If they start to wear like crazy or the wet traction is worse than before, then I'll change them... For now they do fine, considering the car doesn't do any track work, its just a daily. There's no point in spending 2k on tyres if its never gonna see a track...

P1000875.jpg

P1000878.jpg

P1000882.jpg

P1000874.jpg

P1000879.jpg

The wheels sit 33mm further out :( Here's a profile view you can see they ever so slightly stick out the guards :) haha

P1000877.jpg

Ok need advice: What colour should I paint my break calipers?

I'm thinking gold to match the weel nuts, or just black for a clean look.

Would gold be a bit too rice/tryhard?

Next on the cards is my coil overs. I seriously need to dump it now, should look good with those wheels IMO...

Tell me what ya think! :)

in regards to your cold air intake, is it possible to fabricate some sort of snorkel similar to a stock skyline on that sits on top of the rad support? and flairs out? this no issues with water soak

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've heard the Tomei USA head gaskets are decent if you want to o-ring the heads but otherwise not recommended.
    • The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
×
×
  • Create New...