Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just gotta set of avs model 6 17x10's to go on the rear of my 32..

turns out i put them on and the inside lip of the rim rubs on my rear hicas powersteering rack (right on the end)

anyone know what i can do to overcome this? spacers, lower control arm change?

everything is stock suspention wise, except a set of JIC coilovers..

anyone know anything about fitting big fat rims, let me know

thanks

I have a set of 18x9.5 on the rear of my car and when I lowered the rear, the camber increased and the inside lip of my rim was rubbing on the lower part of my coil-over suspension.

I solved this by putting on some 8mm spacers and it doesnt rub anymore. However if I want to lower my car any more (and I do), I'll need to get a set of hubcentric spacers (maybe 20mm or so) and that would in effect give the lug nut the same amount of thread to bite onto and push the wheel out of the guard slightly more.

So from my experience, spacers are the answer - if you want anything up yo 10mm you can get them from places like Repco for $30-$45.

i agree get rid of hicus especially if its drift car

u should be running 1 deg or less for drift so you will have to flare gaurds and add small spacer

what offset are they ?

they are +45 and my coilovers make them sit a little lower than the guard anyways. but i am going to roll them

at the moment, i have a 5mm spacer in there and they still rub on my hicas power steering rack..

i have the lockbar in place.. so your saying i can take that whole rack out and it will still be okay? even tho the hicas bit is connected to a control arm or something next to the coilover?

post-59748-1250237923_thumb.jpg

this is what they look like at the moment, with a 5mm spacer in place, still with a bit of room above the tire itself

post-59748-1250237983_thumb.jpg

this is where it is rubbing, on the little pod on the end of the hicas power steering rack

even with the 5mm spacer, it still rubs

can i remove this whole rack entirely?

17 x 10's on a gts-t is a pipe dream under standard rear guards!

pipe dream?

my mate was running 11's on the rear of his R32 gtst four door with slightly rolled guards without a problem

obviously with different offset than i have

Edited by fourdoorlove

hmmmm looks like im pulling the grinder out... might grind a little bit back, not too much of course, cant have the whole rack falling apart, see if i can get a few mm's there and maybe add a slightly bigger spacer, again not too big tho

fingers crossed

Buy rims that fit.

Spacers.. grinding parts etc is as the person above me said, dodgy...

Rims falling off the car isnt a joke :S

See video below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3oXGbVqfFMc

Edited by br3ndan

thats taking it a bit far i think, that video is a joke if you ask me

ive got plenty of room left on my studs and im only using a 5mm spacer, once i lowered the car back down it didnt rub as the rear camber over compensated for the space between the rim and the hicas, so they fit fine without rubbing

but that is the apsolute maximum size wheel id go with

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...