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Go for an external pump if possible. Just need to make up a bracket, and a couple of lines and a drive pulley. Going by what youve been saying in the last few threads ive seen, you seem more then capable of doing it all yourself.

I dont believe they would be anymore expensive then any of jap pumps....shit our last 4 stage pump was about 1700. What do the jap ones go for these days?

I dont have a problem going for dry sump besides space, I am really limited, but a close second is that I dont feel with mediocure power I need to resort to dry sump and all the aditional plubing. I am an engineer by trade, I have a few stock RB pumps here, I will do some material testing on the remains of the N1 next week as well as compare it to stock.

Thinking about giving the Nitto a try,

And yes, I do have a crank collar installed.

A thought occured to me when looking at my crank collar.. what is the clearance between the collar and the oil pump drive? would it be better to have something machined to suit the specific oil pump you are going to use so as to get the best fit?

If they were truly that bad there would be threads on all the forums every other week about it now wouldn't there? Sadly that isn't the case.

There is a thread every 6-12months or so, and virtually every one results in owner abuse via rev limiter or a poor motor build.

I don't think anyone is saying that every N1 pump is going to fail, more that the chances of a failure are higher than with other pumps.

As for it being a build problem, that would imply Nissan can't build their own motors.... I'm sure I've posted this before, but this was my N1 pump off an 8,000km old R34 N1 motor that barely ever saw limiter or "hard driving":

DSC00013800x600.jpg

To me, that points towards either poor grade materials used in the pump, or Nissan not knowing how to build their own N1 spec motors. I'd say the former is more likely...

I actually think it could be the latter! I've ordered a number of R34 n1 Nur crate motors from nissan japan. all of them I had pulled down at an experienced workshop in japan. 1 was excellent 3 needed work, 1 in particular (farken my one!) was very poor and we actually got money out of nissan JP to pay for the work needed to get it right. some parts of it were excellent, but piston finish was poor for some reason, piston balance was out too (supposed to be hand balanced and the other ones certainly were), crank was perfect, rods were perfect but overall it was a bit of a surprise. the shop I use it japan does it as the basic for any street/track GTR freshen up.

buy new crate motor so you're starting with everything brand new.

pull it apart!

fix what's wrong with it.

port head as desired (depending on use how far you go here)

add metal head gasket to enable it to live with some higher than intended cylinder pressures (don't go crazy, 1.2mm max is needed really)

port out oil returns, add oil feed restrictor.

and then they're good to go.

at the same time generally they add a set of cams and a few other bits as desired but that's the basic idea. and they seem to live pretty well.

having said all that it's quite possible the material varies just like the workmanship...

I hear a rumor you were going to be at the bank tomorrow night.... Not true??

true...im flying up tomm. morning to run the car tomm. night. Flying back the next day.

Edited by DiRTgarage

I have a N1 Pump in my car. Tomei stroker, GT block with GT RS's off the side. Limiter set at 8500 RPM only to not hit it. Always shift no higher then 8000. Motor has so far done 16000 kms. It does have a ATi balancer on it though.... if that helps. Maybe one of the good ones? Knock on wood it doesnt kick the bucket next time i drive it!

I guess its the luck of the draw.

You could bash the limiter all day long for 10 years and not have a problem.

Then again you could have the pump fail with your grandma behind the wheel.

Fingers crossed!

Have a chat to Powertune in NSW about their RB26 oil pump gear sets. Made out of somethin crazy like P20 tool steel or somethin and the same size as a JUN gear set and they can machine the stock housing to suit.

you would actually be suprised to find out what material they are actually made out of. you would then feel pretty bad if u spent the ~550 asking price ;)

I had an N1 pump fail <2000km old

Had new gears machine, apparently by Powertune - fingers crossed

oh, best you dont read my post above :cool:

I dont have a problem going for dry sump besides space, I am really limited, but a close second is that I dont feel with mediocure power I need to resort to dry sump and all the aditional plubing. I am an engineer by trade, I have a few stock RB pumps here, I will do some material testing on the remains of the N1 next week as well as compare it to stock.

Thinking about giving the Nitto a try,

And yes, I do have a crank collar installed.

if your serious and want to talk about dry sump/external pump clearances send me a pm and i'll help you out.

i'm more than happy to help you out without emptying your pockets ;)

lol...$120 return...Jetstar FTW. :D

Virgin hostesses are much better looking though ;)

I bought a stock r33 gtr pump for the 2630 im putting toghether in the hope that it will be stronger than the n1 item. Probably wishful thinking though?

getting offtopic here but u should stick a good condition rb30 pump on it

Ok,

Greddy is available right now ,

Jun is $200us more available 2 weeks leed time

I think the toss up will be nismo and Jun though i havent heard much bad about greddy?

JUN + greddy = same same.

what's involved in doing a pump r and r in an R32 GTR with the engine in? doable within reason? those reimax gears look the goods.

it wouldnt be possible if it needs a collar, even so the subfame would have to be dropped to drop the sump low enough to remove the pump.

im with draino, external or nothin :D

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