Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

probably a factor....but maybe not the only one in rb blocks.

since they are cast, have a full girdle and the crank is factory forged and nitrided...they are pretty strong compared to many motors despite being a long 6 cylinder. this is supported by the fact they almost never spin main bearings.....

image2.jpg

this is what breaks the oil pump.

a good read on whats happening :crankshaft harmonics

That's what said a while ago... It's going on without a doubt.

They are a I4. Not a longer I6.

Taking a wild stab here but a I4 is not going to have the crank movement a I6 has, especially due to weight and so on.

Nor are the forces/pressures there especially if hitting limiters and so on with all that extra spinning around.

And it was met with...

Torsional vibration and harmonics are generaly worse in an I4 due to firing order and cyl sequence, also one of the reasons most I4's have ballance shafts to try help NVH

Large crank movement = toasted bearings, SR20's run main bearings pretty easy if not 100% dead on ballance when running over 400wkw yet dont break oil pumps running a near identical drive setup & dimensions to the RB... Rb on the other hand comes out with bearings looking like brand new yet oil pump is scrap metal, The RB pump is driven not even 3-4mm from No:1 main bearing, pump gets damaged from movement but bearing isnt touched?

There is no way to have rotational vibration / whip without it running out of center.

Yes Rezlo an inline 6 is dynamically balanced, so no issue there.

:D

Time to revisit?

That correlates with the "a good harmonic balancer will save your oil pump" theory i've heard stated on here.

every time theres an oil pump thread i cut and paste this page from ati.. sums it all up. stock balancers wont be suficiant to keep a "stock" oil pump alive, not evan a trust or jun either.

on another note, our race supra (2jz) has a alloy crank pully with zero dampening, looks like a water pump pully.. its not blown the oil pump either. and it hits the limmiter pretty hard. just goes to show how superier the toyota oil pump drive system is..

ive tried to make them put a good balancer on, but with no sucess lol.

Group buy was removed @ the request of the creator.

"Well considering theres a few guys not real confident and wanting to see some testing results, this group buy can be closed for the mean time."

Fair enough too IMO. A G/B that should have started once there was some actual testing for sanity's sake at least. ;)

Whats happeneing with the gears? can't seem to find the group buy- probably blind i'll have another look.

Yes they are still being made. I closed the GB thread to follow the forum rules ;). I'll put up another one when i have some 'testing results'

Anyone have any pics of the inside of the NITTO Pumps ? - I would really like to see what makes it special, other than what is said about it.

I am a little interested now and like many others, I was simply scared into facing the fact that I would have to eventually buy a Tomei Pump for my ongoing build, but if there is an alternative, I am open to reveiwing it.

Thanks,

Allan

Anyone have any pics of the inside of the NITTO Pumps ? - I would really like to see what makes it special, other than what is said about it.

I am a little interested now and like many others, I was simply scared into facing the fact that I would have to eventually buy a Tomei Pump for my ongoing build, but if there is an alternative, I am open to reveiwing it.

Thanks,

Allan

i can send you a photo of the nitto pump that ate cast iron if you like...your e-mail address?

[email protected]

Thanks.

Although THIS does interest me, I am still waiting patiently for the AUS 'Tomei' replacement :)

So to whoever is doing it.....Get on that CNC and make some magic.....lol

Edited by JD74
[email protected]

Thanks.

Although THIS does interest me, I am still waiting patiently for the AUS 'Tomei' replacement :)

So to whoever is doing it.....Get on that CNC and make some magic.....lol

JPC in Melbourne already produce N1 style replacement OEM pump gears if that is what interests you. http://www.jpc.com.au/ The Nitto pump gears are made from superior material from those though...i would rather not risk it with any material other than Nitto or an external pump.

Edited by DiRTgarage

I was on Nissansilvia forums earlier and came across the powertune gears (again)

http://hardtuned.net/forums/index.php?app=...ttach_id=177301

made out of P20

hows it compare to JPCs 4340 gears? pretty cheap at $350

I am still at a bit of a loss when it comes to these 'Nitto' pumps.....

Where are they made ?

Who makes them ?

Who is Nitto ?

Info is in short supply. Website ? Manufacturer Info ?

Unfortunately these are not a great deal compared to Tomei anywhere else other than Aus/NZ......

Edited by JD74

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...