Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well here goes, i was driving from home to Albion Park today (15 mins) and noticed that my temp gauge was reading a little higher than usual (just over half), but i thought nothing of it. Then when i was driving to work this afternoon (30 mins) the temp went up to just over 3/4.

I have owned the car for about 4 months and this is the first time this has happened.

The water level is good and overflow bottle was full (max line), theres no oil in the water or water in the oil and theres no visible water leaks, the radiator cap seems to be ok and the water pump is pumping i think.

The car is running a thermo fan and it is working (was in the car when i bought it) but for some reason it was spinning the wrong way (blowing instead of sucking), it has never gotten hot before.

I tried changing the polarity of the fan and it will suck but i don't know why it hasn't overheated before.

Is there any thing that can automatically make the fan spin backwards?

Has anyone experienced this sort of problem before?

Thanks David

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283941-r33-gtst-overheating/
Share on other sites

Thermo fans spin whichever way you wire them. Is your thermo fan cutting in? It should have a relay and in line fuse.

Fuse is supposed to be [from memory and if its a davies craig unit] 60a. I'll check that and get back to you though.

I've had the same issues with a thermo fan, and it was either the relay or the fuse [i had the vehicle for over 10 years].

But have to say they work fine normally.

Yes the fan is cutting in. They were wired up before i got the car and yes its a davies craig. I have checked the wiring as per the davies craig wiring diagram and it's correct. The fuse is a 10A.

Got pics of the setup?

Your running a shroud I presume? 1 big single or 2 twin thermos?

My experience with non-oem thermo's have failed. 1 x 16" failed, 2 x 12" squeezed in also failed. Both were not running shrouds.

It was fine in the cooler weather but as soon as it started to warm up a little the needle began heading north.

A 10a fuse won't take the load you are putting on it, esp. as it cuts in. by rights shouldn't be working at all. Get on their web site and ask, I'm sure it's a 60a [can't find the paperwork, I must have passed it on when I sold the vehicle].

I rang them and they told me [it was like 8 years ago then], there was a phone number at the bootom of the instruction sheet/warranty.

Spinning the wrong way will make your car heat up at lights and in traffic, if your driving down the road at anything over 40km/h it won't matter, the air blowing through your radiator will do more than any fan can manage.

The Davies craig diagram shows that the fuse is a 5A, im running 10A, which is too big anyway. 60A is way too big, if anything goes wrong it will blow up the fan motor or switch before the fuse blows.

Anyway i changed the polarity of the wires and today on the way to work the temp was back to normal.

Thanks for your help guys.

  • 1 month later...
My experience with non-oem thermo's have failed. 1 x 16" failed, 2 x 12" squeezed in also failed. Both were not running shrouds.

I had the same problem and after spending a few hundred dollars on fan kits i was getting pissed off - found that it was pumping hot air back thru the un-shrouded core, you could feel it coming thru - fitted the shroud over the 16" and its all good now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...