Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 716
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...

some movement on the 4wd hr31 (only took a kid on the way to motivate me to finish it)

old greg has machined the engine and will be building it over the next few weeks so then it will be back for final assembly

nice bloke with picks of the whole process and he is good looking

2011-12-01182445.jpg

2011-12-12080846.jpg

2011-12-20085739.jpg

2011-12-21150950.jpg

2011-12-21152709.jpg

2011-12-21151008.jpg

2011-12-21151247.jpg

2011-12-21152957.jpg

2011-12-21201130.jpg

2011-12-21204704.jpg

2011-12-21210522.jpg

2011-12-21211903.jpg

these things are supposedly good but cost a shittonne in machining to fit

2011-12-21212726.jpg

2011-12-21222228.jpg

2011-12-21222228.jpg

2011-12-22004852.jpg

2011-12-22004904.jpg

hopefully will do skidz

4wd skidz would be mad fun, id like to see wrx or evo have half a chance of chirping 2nd's....

PS congrats Pete & Jenna, didn't even realise there was a little 1 cooking away when i saw you both the other day. All the best :cheers:

pull the engine out tomorrow to see whats wrong

will get a 9 litre sump as the same time as one of the spare motors goes in

race car got new booties

bought these agaes ago

around 6kg a corner ligher than the rotor rims and rubber

reminds me of the old gibo cars

panasport forged single piece.... nice and light weight

IMG_1138.jpg

IMG_1136.jpg

IMG_1137.jpg

pull the engine out tomorrow to see whats wrong

will get a 9 litre sump as the same time as one of the spare motors goes in

race car got new booties

bought these agaes ago

around 6kg a corner ligher than the rotor rims and rubber

reminds me of the old gibo cars

panasport forged single piece.... nice and light weight

IMG_1137.jpg

how much extra hp the boot mods worth?

Posting for updates, oh hey look there's one now :P

Block getting kero washed

2011-12-31151001.jpg

Wondering what Pete's block would look like with a nitto 3.2L crank

2011-12-31160944.jpg

Dummy assembling to measure piston to deck height (and check main tunnel clearances)

2011-12-31162014.jpg

2011-12-31161959.jpg

(all were exactly 0.0015" no ovality)

2011-12-31175433.jpg

2011-12-31174508.jpg

(perfect only 0.009" to grind off for 0 deck height)

2011-12-31191922.jpg

2011-12-31192113.jpg

2011-12-31200546.jpg

now to wash the block again and paint it while i continue to reset the tappets after having to correct and redo just about everything on that head

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...