Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

+18

The clearance from stut housing to the inside of the wheel will be 6mm MORE

The outside edge of the wheel will EXTEND an extra 18mm

This is based off of a stock 17x9+30 I would go the 17x9.5+18

Yes I found that calculator later yesterday, 17x9+38 wouldn't work as it would probably touch the brakes, +18 sounds good.

Any recommendations regarding size/offset still welcome, I went 17 inch because I can get slightly more profile than an 18" :)

I thought you would want as little profile as possible on a track car. More profile = more sidewall flex. You can fit the same tyres on a 17 x 9, 17 x 9.5 and 17 x 10 so you won't have trouble finding tyres for a 17 x 10 rim. Your better off deciding what size tyres you want to run for the track and then picking rims to suit that.

Yes I found that calculator later yesterday, 17x9+38 wouldn't work as it would probably touch the brakes, +18 sounds good.

Any recommendations regarding size/offset still welcome, I went 17 inch because I can get slightly more profile than an 18" :whistling:

Offset won't effect the brake clearance. The spoke and wheel design is all that will effect clearance. The centre part of the rim is still in the same location with different offsets.

Being a beginner I would recommend less sidewall flex as while learning you won't have the skills yet to drive around the flex yet of a higher sidewall profile. Turn in is a lot easier with less sidewall flex and the car woun't move around as much. Just a heads up.

I thought you would want as little profile as possible on a track car. More profile = more sidewall flex. You can fit the same tyres on a 17 x 9, 17 x 9.5 and 17 x 10 so you won't have trouble finding tyres for a 17 x 10 rim. Your better off deciding what size tyres you want to run for the track and then picking rims to suit that.

Hi,

I had a discussion with some forum members, most recommended 17x10 but I did the maths, a 255/40/17 tyre is more common in some brands of semi-slick, for example Advan A048. And the other I'd consider is 265/40/17

Either is a good fit for a 17x9.5, the 255 and sometimes 265 is listed with 10" as the upper end, so 9.5 is probably ideal for my purposes in the +18 offset.

Rowdyr32, thanks for the info, the spokes look very similar to standard but I'm not quite sure how much brake clearance they have, I think +18 is a safer offset as I get an extra 6mm in the 17x9.5.

Thanks for the tips.

  • 6 months later...

If you have not bought yet you are WAY better with 18" because there is an abundance of really good slicks around cheap. I sell almost new for $50 to $100 per tyre. Much faster than any semi slick.

Tyres will be the main cost and the thing that improves your lap time more than any other thing. Its a recurring cost so you really should try to go 18"

Here are a couple of useful links

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...=STRK:MESELX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...=STRK:MESELX:IT

Too late, I've bought 17x9.5 , prices new are similar between 17/18" I didn't expect semi-slicks to be cheaper in 18" and they aren't brand new....

Thanks anyway

  • 7 months later...
Offset won't effect the brake clearance. The spoke and wheel design is all that will effect clearance. The centre part of the rim is still in the same location with different offsets.

Being a beginner I would recommend less sidewall flex as while learning you won't have the skills yet to drive around the flex yet of a higher sidewall profile. Turn in is a lot easier with less sidewall flex and the car woun't move around as much. Just a heads up.

incorrect. offset does affect brake clearance.

I couldn't get my nismo lmgt 17x9j +30 to clear my Ap however with a +15mm spacer they clear no issue

incorrect. offset does affect brake clearance.

I couldn't get my nismo lmgt 17x9j +30 to clear my Ap however with a +15mm spacer they clear no issue

Think about what you just said for a second.

Offset of the wheel does not effect brake clearance.

As old mate said it's about the face type and the spoke design along with the thickness of the centre of the wheel.

The spacer is not changing the offset of the wheel at all, only the effective offset. If you bought a 17x9j +15 Nismo LM GT in the same face as you have now, I guarantee they'd foul the brakes as well.

That is why wheel manufacturers offer different face types to clear big brakes, offset is all just to do with backspacing (coilover clearance) and guard clearance/fitment.

edit: can't spell :P

Edited by «Cyph3r»

they both affect brake clearance. offset in different wheels is achieved diffeent ways. some change the position of the rim relative to the spoke (thus the spokes position to the caliper does not change) but some change the thickness of the hub which moves the spokes and the wheel rim and this does affect caliper clearance so it all depends on the individual wheel. both spoke desgin and offset and furthermore HOW the offset is achieved does affect caliper clearance.

they both affect brake clearance. offset in different wheels is achieved diffeent ways. some change the position of the rim relative to the spoke (thus the spokes position to the caliper does not change) but some change the thickness of the hub which moves the spokes and the wheel rim and this does affect caliper clearance so it all depends on the individual wheel. both spoke desgin and offset and furthermore HOW the offset is achieved does affect caliper clearance.

+1

beer baron explain it alot better than i can. If you check the RAYS website they state which offset do not clear brakes for a given width

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...