Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Shifting into 2nd is a bit 'stiff', 'clunky', also down shifting into 1st.

Doesn't make a difference if vehicle is well warmed up.

What does that mean? Gearbox knackered? I think my clutch is ok.

What's the $ to sort this if it is the gearbox?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285719-gearbox/
Share on other sites

Synchros are worn mate, nothing much you can do. Changing gearbox oil will help MASK the problem but it won't ever be fixed. Either get a new gearbox or freshen up your current one

What's the rough cost of say rebuilding my current one? Can you just buy new synchros?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285719-gearbox/#findComment-4797037
Share on other sites

Need to recondition the thing with new synchros. Will cost about $1000-1200 with you taking the box out.

Why are you downshifting into 1st? Unless the car is at a stop you shouldn't be putting the gearbox in 1st. It'll just wear out your 1st gear synchro something bad.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285719-gearbox/#findComment-4797200
Share on other sites

at $1200 + labour ($300-400 for labour?) ...how much is a new gearbox ?

never mind ..found an R33 genuine nissan from a popular jdm sho in sydney (ie. exxy shop) for $3200 ..so I'm guessing it should be doable for $2500 or so.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285719-gearbox/#findComment-4797248
Share on other sites

Need to recondition the thing with new synchros. Will cost about $1000-1200 with you taking the box out.

Why are you downshifting into 1st? Unless the car is at a stop you shouldn't be putting the gearbox in 1st. It'll just wear out your 1st gear synchro something bad.

I mean going into 1st when still rolling, not then engaging the clutch as such, but keeping the clutch out until stopped and ready to move off again after say the lights change. Is that a no-no? Damn I've been driving like that for years. :)

Anyway I just was wondering if I get the gearbox rebuilt that would be worn syncros, seal and bearings? right? Is there any disadvantage to doing that over getting a 'new' box (which would just be one from a wreckers right? so low km?). I don't need an 'upgraded' gearbox since my car is stock and even though I'm planning some mods I doubt I'll get more that 200 kw at the wheels since I'm not planning on anything more that stage 1 (ish).

I mean I can live with it since the car still drives ok(ish). But it's just a niggling thing that isn't going to get better then and is kinda annoying to be honest.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285719-gearbox/#findComment-4797375
Share on other sites

have you considered draining your gearbox oil and putting in some Redline Shockproof Lightweight oil instead ? So many people swear by it ... as it 'masks' all the existing problems with your gearbox ie. worn syncros. So it feels as new until it completely dies I guess ..which could be in 10 years time, long after you've already sold/crashed/written off the car.

I have the same notchy feeling, especially on cold starts ... so I'm gonna try this shockproof oil soon. Don't see the point in reconditioning gearbox as I'm not gonna take my car over 200rwkw anytime soon. For $100 I can get the same feeling as new/recon box :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285719-gearbox/#findComment-4797429
Share on other sites

redline shockproof is from what i hear not good for syncros or not approved for use with sychro gearboxes

Best I could figure out is that the Shockproof oil is good for worn boxes with synchro issues etc ie. any 10+ year old car. On a new/reconditioned box you would use the normal oil (MT90 or whatever it is)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285719-gearbox/#findComment-4797548
Share on other sites

at $1200 + labour ($300-400 for labour?) ...how much is a new gearbox ?

never mind ..found an R33 genuine nissan from a popular jdm sho in sydney (ie. exxy shop) for $3200 ..so I'm guessing it should be doable for $2500 or so.

Is that a brand new gearbox you found or a second hand import? If it's second hand that's a rip off IMO. If brand new it sounds about right / worthwhile.

I mean going into 1st when still rolling, not then engaging the clutch as such, but keeping the clutch out until stopped and ready to move off again after say the lights change. Is that a no-no? Damn I've been driving like that for years. :D

Anyway I just was wondering if I get the gearbox rebuilt that would be worn syncros, seal and bearings? right? Is there any disadvantage to doing that over getting a 'new' box (which would just be one from a wreckers right? so low km?). I don't need an 'upgraded' gearbox since my car is stock and even though I'm planning some mods I doubt I'll get more that 200 kw at the wheels since I'm not planning on anything more that stage 1 (ish).

I mean I can live with it since the car still drives ok(ish). But it's just a niggling thing that isn't going to get better then and is kinda annoying to be honest.

I recommend waiting until the car is stopped, or atleast around 5km/h. The synchros match vehicle speed with gear speed, working somewhat independantly of the clutch. I'm not saying "you can't do this, blah blah", I'm just saying that this is what wears out your synchros. They are a wearing, serviceable item just like any other mechanical part of the car. And it's always a balance between how hard you want to drive your car and how long it lasts :)

A full and proper gearbox recondition will have all the worn synchros, seals and bearings replaced. I highly recommend doing this over buying a second hand box, as the process leaves the box refreshed in an as new condition. The only disadvantage is on some really worn/old boxes you can be left with a slight rollover bearing noise in neutral, which comes about after resetting gearbox tolerances. Second hand boxes in general are cheaper, but it's lucky dip whether you get a good one and most places won't offer you a warranty on them. Some last 1000km, others last 100,000km. Also remember that the car went to the wreckers for a reason and it's not uncommon for accident damage to have an impact on the gearbox. This is just my opinion - not everyone has a spare grand or two to get their gearbox reconditioned.

have you considered draining your gearbox oil and putting in some Redline Shockproof Lightweight oil instead ? So many people swear by it ... as it 'masks' all the existing problems with your gearbox ie. worn syncros. So it feels as new until it completely dies I guess ..which could be in 10 years time, long after you've already sold/crashed/written off the car.

I have the same notchy feeling, especially on cold starts ... so I'm gonna try this shockproof oil soon. Don't see the point in reconditioning gearbox as I'm not gonna take my car over 200rwkw anytime soon. For $100 I can get the same feeling as new/recon box :D

No harm in trying the stuff on a worn box, it probably does wonders (have no experience with it myself), but you are correct in guessing it masks the problem and it will be an unfortunate surprise for the next owner :)

For the record guys, synchro wear doesn't have much to do with the power your engine is putting out...it has more to do with your style of driving; type of clutch; how fast/slow you change gears. Power/torque is more likely to strip or blow the gear itself. If you want to preserve synchros, avoid changing down at high RPM, double clutch when appropriate and don't slam the thing into gear. A smooth, positive shift is a fast shift anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285719-gearbox/#findComment-4798175
Share on other sites

on that note .. maybe some shockproof lightweight + one of those ebay shortshifters would be a good idea? You get easy shifts due to oil and you can shift faster without damaging the synchros any further since it's a much smaller throw to put into gear ?? That way your worn/factory box will last as long as possible AND feel great... Just an idea :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285719-gearbox/#findComment-4798808
Share on other sites

Well actually, those short shifters usually only change the pivot point (and therefore the throw) of the gear shifter...the synchros still travel the same distance to engage. Short shifters alter the balance between ease of gear shift and speed of gear shift, much like closing a door by pushing on a part closer to its hinges rather than using the handle. Thus making it worse for the synchros because more physical force is required on the shifter to change gears...and across a shorter throw...making for a harsh and not-so-smooth shift. Nice try though :thumbsup::D:(

I really should go home.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285719-gearbox/#findComment-4798930
Share on other sites

I get what you're saying but I woulda thought a short shifter would allow you to shift without missing a shift ..where most of the crunching is done and damage to synchros. ie. with a short shifter you could still shift SLOWLY but it wouldn't be such an annoyance as the throw is shorter... ah well, just an idea albeit a pretty weak one :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285719-gearbox/#findComment-4798970
Share on other sites

Took the car to a mech and he took it for a blast around the industrial estate (literally, I'm glad no cops were lurking about :laugh: ) Reckons syncros aren't worn too bad, but maybe a tooth has been knocked off here and there making a few shifts clunky on occasion. His advice is to change the oil to something more suitable (not sure what), probably not worth a full rebuild. Anyway I'm gonna take it in to do that if a couple of weeks and also get them to check the whole car over for EVERTHING. The guy could easily have told me to do a rebuild. Had a chat about light mods (exhaust, inflow) and will probably do that after he goes over the whole car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285719-gearbox/#findComment-4799132
Share on other sites

Just wanna point out the difference between reconditioning and rebuilding, with the latter involving the replacement of every component in the gearbox (including the gears) for brand new parts. It is an unnecessary and overly expensive process, because gears themselves only break with excessive torque or driver abuse. Reconditioning involves only replacing the worn items plus all the bearings and seals. It is much cheaper and realistically what you would get done if you had the cash / wanted to fix your synchro problem for good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285719-gearbox/#findComment-4799461
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

My R33 GTS-t has pretty much the exact same symptoms as you have just described. i have been thinking about the above options and recon ill look to get it reconditioned. looking to eventually push at least 250 kw atws out of it by the time if finished doing it up so i recon a strong drivetrain will be the best place to start. at the moment it is 100% stock except for a pod filter.

anyone know any good gearbox places in adelaide? preferebly once with experience in working with these gearboxes???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285719-gearbox/#findComment-4865590
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...