Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtr New Key Coding To Nats System

BookyVL

By BookyVL,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

see two posts back. if its a NATS key there will be a blue or red area at the base of it. have seen both used locally in the patrol. GTR was usually a separate fob

Macross Enthusiast

Macross

Posted
Posted

I have the red area at the base of the key, but I'm not sure if coding a new key would work as the car has an aftermarket alarm and I only have the remote for that alarm - so unsure if coding a new key would work with this??

Macross Enthusiast

Macross

Posted
Posted
if the car starts with that key then its coded to it. car WILL NOT start with an uncoded key. alarm will make no difference to that.

I meant more for coding a new key, with the steps outlined earlier

"1.get in the car and manually lock the door

2.insert the key in and out of the ignition switch 6 times,the doors will unlock by themselves

3.Insert the key without losing rythme and turn to acc,and relock dors manually,then push the button on the remote.

presto,you have a coded remote"

The only remote is the alarm remote, so would that be used to code the new key or is there meant to be some OEM remote for the car?

  • 7 months later...
M'ck'y Contributor

M'ck'y

Posted
Posted (edited)

I only got 1 r34gtr factory key and 1 remote when i bought my gtr. I wanted some spare keys so went to my local nissan and asked for the process of getting new keys and sold me 2 uncut new factory keys, that arrived a week later. I had to have them cut and brought it back to be programmed. When i brought the car in , they told me these cannot be programmed because it is an import, not even looking at the car. I then went to other nissan dealers who tried it in their consult but with no success.

Today I've started to ring a few automotive locksmiths, and only 1 guy said he might be able to do it, but will have to ring him at 5 pm and book an appointment.

How are you guys doing your spare keys?

Edited by M'ck'y
  • 1 month later...
BookyVL Proficient

BookyVL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Talking to Nissan Australia, they said that Nissan Capalaba can do this.

I called them and they seemed to think that they can.

I havent got a spare key cut yet or coded.

Just thought I would add this update.

Hope it helps people.

aphid Proficient

aphid

Posted
Posted

Here's a hot tip, do NOT go to Nissan at Lutwyche.

I gave them my car with a working NATS ecu and key ready to be programmed. I got the car back 2 days later, no consultation with there response that the NATS ECU was fried (They'd fried it) which was going to be $550 for a new item and a 2 week wait + 2 hours labor to change on top of the 7 hours labour @ $120 an hour they'd already done to diagnose this. When I declined they said I would need to pay the full $820 before they gave my car back.

A quick call to fair trading set them straight, but yeah... Don't ever go there!!!

  • 4 weeks later...
xxjavaxx2001 Explorer

xxjavaxx2001

Posted
Posted

goodmorning guys.. i have a quick query regarding the key. you see.. my remote key buttons have been teared apart already due to wear and tear. would you happen to know where i can source the rubber button inside the remote key? or if the situation is worse than i expected then maybe the whole remote key case with the rubber button? im desperate. i cant seem to find that rubber anywhere here in the philippines.

  • 2 months later...
ricknismo Grand Master

ricknismo

Posted
Posted

I put an untuned Power Fc in to make sure it works (and it does) and then wanted to put my standard one back in as the standard one felt a bit quicker.

It unmatched my key so I tried the procedure and it does at you say..6 times and the hazard light blinks but when I go to ACC and press lock...nothing.

Do you have to do the lot in 10s?

My hazards don't blink when I press lock in ACC.

Is there a set amount of time to code enable?

R6n350GT Experienced

R6n350GT

Posted
Posted
I put an untuned Power Fc in to make sure it works (and it does) and then wanted to put my standard one back in as the standard one felt a bit quicker.

It unmatched my key so I tried the procedure and it does at you say..6 times and the hazard light blinks but when I go to ACC and press lock...nothing.

Do you have to do the lot in 10s?

My hazards don't blink when I press lock in ACC.

Is there a set amount of time to code enable?

For anyone who wants a key cut and programmed the locksmith in Brisbane that i get to do all mine can do what ever key you have. Even NATS5. No need for an expensive nissan key and BCM code. PM me if you want his details, one key is $170-$180 or something and if you want more than one done or a group of you want them done then he may be able to offer cheaper prices. They wont have the central locking or boot release but will start ur car and having a backup is always best...

  • 1 year later...
Hargow Experienced

Hargow

Posted
Posted

Sorry to dig up an old post,

But does anyone know if any lock smiths or Nissan dealers in NSW that can program a NATS key?

From the above posts it seems some dealers won't do it.

Cheers,

Will

33GTRV Mentor

33GTRV

Posted
Posted

any nissan dealer that says they cant code the key needs a bloody bullet. Its a simple process and CAN be done via consult, provided you have a working key. You just clone the thing. I had to show the techs at nissan how to do it in gladstone because they are all 17 year old tradesmen with no clue. You can do it on some newer model scan tools as well such as the carman scan 5. If they say they cant do it, i wouldnt even trust them doing a service.

Hargow Experienced

Hargow

Posted
Posted

any nissan dealer that says they cant code the key needs a bloody bullet. Its a simple process and CAN be done via consult, provided you have a working key. You just clone the thing. I had to show the techs at nissan how to do it in gladstone because they are all 17 year old tradesmen with no clue. You can do it on some newer model scan tools as well such as the carman scan 5. If they say they cant do it, i wouldnt even trust them doing a service.

Thanks for your reply, i'll check a few nissan dealers out

  • 1 year later...
Hargow Experienced

Hargow

Posted
Posted

Once again i know its an old thread.

Just an update for those that are in NSW and would like to get a key cut and coded for the R34 GTR with out going to the dealers.

Mister Minit in Livepool Westfield can do this, they use another key made by SLCA.

Got mine done this afternoon and it works perfectly.

Not sure if most people will be happy on price but they charge $179.95 for supply of key, cut and coded.

The way i see it, its a small price to pay to have an extra key for a car worth 40k plus.

Hope this helps, pic of key attached

post-32402-0-50589400-1365839195_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
CarbonCarSystems Collaborator

CarbonCarSystems

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,


Best guy in NSW is Daniel at Ultimate Locksmiths very very experienced.


He has a mobile service.


Terrible webpage but he is awesome with the key side ;D

http://www.ultimatelocksmiths.com

Kind Regards,

Daniel Gardener

Carbon Car Systems

  • 2 years later...
  • 4 months later...
johnr33gts-t Newbie

johnr33gts-t

Posted
Posted

Does this work for the r33 series 2 as I have a new remote key but can't program it to the car...(can't get the car into program mode for some stupid reason) and yes it has the black box behind the door panel (Receiver) it also has a cheap arse RHINO alarm fitted could this be the cause of my problem??? any help is greatly appreciated ...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...