Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 181
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What about Whiteline heavy duty blade adjustable swaybars front and rear with the link kits. Swaybars feel better than ungrading suspention! Also change all the bushes and strut braces. Pretty sure thats 2 grand well spent there. You would only have to do your links after that but to get all the links done cost well over 2 grand because there are so many in skylines.

Build looks great :down:

i agree about the swaybars but thats another part we will look at in a bit, we are reco'ing the front and rear subframes and attached so why they are out time to change all the old stuff and get new adjustable stuff lol

If you are looking at swaybars wait a few weeks until i get back to Melb...got a great idea for you to try and will be far better then anything you buy from Whiteline :)

A nice deep red GTR is AWESOME! I have always looked at Hyper Rev mages and LOVED the occassional red GTR you come accross. 80% of the time they used to have white wheels, of late they have had black wheels. All look amazing.

no probs roy will speak to you when you get back, but other then that what do you think of the above items they come in around the $800 mark which i think is good

Are the JJR suspension arms made in china?? If so i would personally steer clear just as i would the chinese brakes when it comes to components that are a safty issue I would personally steer clear of anything from china. Not saying that thay are a bad thing as I have no personal experiance with them but dont take chances with anything suspension or brake related. Good luck with the build mate is coming along nicely.

thanks man, i understand what you are saying but justjap say they are good and they have not ever let me down so i thought i would try them out but still open to what people whould get

Mate there's nothing wrong with the JustJap suspension control arms. We've had no problems with them. The only ones I'd steer clear of are the front upper control arms you have pictured. I had them in my road car and broke the locking clamp on one side which let the arm flap around and bent the other side about 30 degrees. I'd actually steer clear of any front upper control arms of that design. You'll need to get some of the slide type arms or fixed shorted arms as they are much stronger.

No doubt just jap are going to say they are good as they sell them so they are hardly going to say anything else!!. Dont get me wrong I am not saying that they are not good as I have no personal experiance with them though I would agree with the above post about the upper controll arms as that design is known to be flawed and will definatly break is not a matter of if but when.

I personally would go for IKEA FORMULAR suspension gear but the cost is prohibitive for a lot of people but in my opinion the IKEA stuff is by far the best on the market. Personally if I was not useing the ikea stuff i would have custom fabricated arms in chrome molly and sourced the spherical joints locally as this could be done by any good fabricator or by yourselves if you have the right equipment and necessary fabrication skills and would give peice of mind in regards to quality of materials and workmanship. In my opinion you should never make a decision on parts that have a direct bearing on saftey based on price that is just my 2c worth. And as i stated i am by no means saying that the Just Jap stuff is no good as I stated I have had no personal experiance with them but must say I am always suspect on china parts.

i do agree with you dazmo, i wont use shit parts, from reading lots im not going to run the upper arms just get the standard ones that are shorter. for the other stuff they are strong and much better then standard and we think this is what we are going to go for . you never know when it comes to buying them i might splash out and get the best just have to see what the funds say when the time comes.

thanks everyone for your input it does make me have a better understanding of what i should do.

please keep it coming the more different ideas i hear the better choice i can make

  • 5 weeks later...

well time for a bit of an update,

its been sanded and rubbed and sanded and rubbed, thank god is all i can say.

its now in the booth and paint being applied by lockys truck repairs, these guys are awesome with there painting in and out in two days!!!!!

13343_200131857447_560567447_3958453_7244494_n.jpg

13343_200131862447_560567447_3958454_7236454_n.jpg

its coming home, back to the factory you could say is final on the road home lol

13343_201075257447_560567447_3965860_6094120_n.jpg

13343_201075262447_560567447_3965861_555834_n.jpg

its home back in the factory where the fun starts

13343_201075272447_560567447_3965863_8080578_n.jpg

13343_201075287447_560567447_3965864_6309966_n.jpg

13343_201075292447_560567447_3965865_470255_n.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...