Jump to content
SAU Community

Led Drive Lights, What Do You Guys Think Of Them?

666DAN

By 666DAN,
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

handbrake Veteran

handbrake

Posted
Posted

too expensive

not as nice an integration as seen in the Audi's either.. look like an afterthought

better visual impact would be acheived with that money going to some tasty CF accents

elrodeo666 Mentor

elrodeo666

Posted
Posted

This was pic at some Drags here in Japan a couple of weeks ago that got washed out!!

Pics dont do them justice as they look like absolute pox in the flesh.

When I first saw them on this GTR I wondered why you would put such cheap nasty looking lights on a primo car.

The japanese owner told me they were top coin but still dont suit the car at all..Sorry Dan

post-43319-1254358709_thumb.jpg

post-43319-1254358740_thumb.jpg

post-43319-1254358774_thumb.jpg

RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
Posted

hmm, im afraid i have to agree, not a fan, they are too short, and too close to the centre of the car IMO, they need to be spaced out further, maybe someone could come up with a set for one of the aftermarket kits with larger front vents

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah I'm not a big fan, and at nearly $2000 AUD they are no wise spending. none of the 3 R35s I bought in had them optioned on. I'm pretty sure they are how you subtly tell people you like the company of other men. flash your 'day lights' at each other in passing....

writeoff Mentor

writeoff

Posted
Posted

I like them but I wouldn't pay $2000 for them. Maybe they need some other mods to set them off like this car at Willall. I wouldn't mind if this car flashed me BB. :)

post-19208-1254376018_thumb.jpg

post-19208-1254376110_thumb.jpg

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
I like them but I wouldn't pay $2000 for them. Maybe they need some other mods to set them off like this car at Willall. I wouldn't mind if this car flashed me BB. :)

yeah that car looks nice, but would probably look even nicer without the day LEDs. :O

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTR Front Diffuser/Guard Liner questions.

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • MBS206
      Cold compression test after rebuild... should I be worried?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
    • MBS206
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By MBS206 · Posted

      OR, Tell the Motec to STFU, you said shift, so try shifting! But then yes, I agree, more sensors needed to. Put either a wheel speed sensor, or a diff speed sensor on it. Then get an input shaft speed sensor too. (I say input shaft speed, and not engine RPM). This way, you can now also log and see if the clutch is slipping (RPM, vs input shaft speed), and you can calculate gear (Input shaft speed / Output shaft speed). At least then if the gear position sensor fails you have a backup. And realistically, the Motec should only worry about what gear you're in for the parts where I'm assuming you have some power management strategies in it for the lower gears. (IE, lower boost, maybe different throttle curves, different ignition curves, etc etc). But it should stop it shifting. Pull the flappy, that f**ker should just attempt the motion! Heck, even on a sequential like on a motorbike, you can keep trying to kick it up a gear all you want, the physically part of the box takes care of not being able to loop the whole way around the box! Only part you'd have to worry is how it gets to reverse.  But that's on the driver... An R32 shouldn't be so smart as to try and override the driver on a gear shift  
    • GTSBoy
      Cold compression test after rebuild... should I be worried?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, nah. Anyone not putting the absolutely largest battery that will physically fit (ie, NS70 X) is not thinking straight. the NS70 X is close on double the capacity of the "stock" unit.
×
×
  • Create New...