Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if found the 595rs to be a semi semi (ie not as soft as r888 or 555 etc) so you should be ok, ive dynoed a few with the 595rs without drama, mind you they were only high 200 rwkw cars.

Those and the KU36 are a street compound in a semi pattern not an R compound(Like the RE55), or an I mistaken?

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if found the 595rs to be a semi semi (ie not as soft as r888 or 555 etc) so you should be ok, ive dynoed a few with the 595rs without drama, mind you they were only high 200 rwkw cars.

these were the tyres I was using. well actually 595rs-r's

it should be somewhere around 350+kw at the rears which is the bit that concerns me (RB30 + GT3582 0.82)

Those and the KU36 are a street compound in a semi pattern not an R compound(Like the RE55), or an I mistaken?

They have a tread wear rating around 150 unlike the RE55's which are between 50-100 from memory

yep the KU36 and 595rs-r and RT615 are all in the same basket... pretty aggro tread pattern but no where near as soft as full semis... all around 180-200 tread wear rating

I've just had a set of the KU36 put on my car... I wouldn't think they will affect the dyno at all... they drive pretty much like normal road tyres just have a stiffer sidewall, fatter shoulder and bigger tread blocks

I dunno what's up with your car but I would be looking for a second opinion

480rwkw... yes!

480rwhp... no!

unless it was stripped to a bare shell and even then it would probably be too heavy

Defiantly 480rwhp and full body totally as driven and as it sits at my house for sale right now. So many shops give dodgy power figures and people have become so brainwashed that they believe these silly figures. Many high powered GTRs are Dyno queens with very poor power curves with late boost and falling off boost between gears etc.

This thing even does over 500ks to a tank and is very nice to drive with a simple smart package that now its sorted works.

Defiantly 480rwhp and full body totally as driven and as it sits at my house for sale right now. So many shops give dodgy power figures and people have become so brainwashed that they believe these silly figures. Many high powered GTRs are Dyno queens with very poor power curves with late boost and falling off boost between gears etc.

This thing even does over 500ks to a tank and is very nice to drive with a simple smart package that now its sorted works.

sold haha.

I had mine tuned ages ago and at the time it only had 250ish kw, but it was strapped down with NUMEROUS straps. Anyone who has been to the PITS knows the top notch setup matty has going on there.

Pluss I would think that it would have to be strapped down WELL due to OH&S requirements. I dont care who you are, not strapping a car down, or just using 1 strap is completely negligent.

Edited by r33cruiser

Well I have the Time cards and I tuned it myself. Ive been accused of over rating Power graphs but under rating is a first.

I have racecars at every meeting at Wanneroo beating similar cars that claim sometimes 100s of HP more than my cars so these huge power claims make me laugh.

Ive even seen GTRs with 800rwhp power graphs run 11.9s etc so forget Dyno sheets and rely on time cards.

Edited by N I B
i said you could run 134mph with 480rwkw... doesnt mean it would be a good run!

480rwhp on the other hand is bending physics

No it's not... Head out to WSID...

Maybe a car making 480RWHP at 9000RPM it is...

But if it's pushing 480RWHP at 4500RPM... You're making double the torque... IE, it'll accelerate twice as fast... :(

Edit: As to that video of the car "climbing" out of the dyno... I wouldn't even call that movement if you'd seen how mine used to walk around when coming on boost until we worked out how to strap it on perfectly...

Car used to walk 1.5Ft sideways, and if it didn't go sideways, it'd climb OVER the front of the roller and nearly touch the front of the dyno... Oh, and the whole time it's doing this it's filling the work shop with tyre smoke... :cool:

Took us a bit to work it out, but lower the ramp rate, and we actually LOOSENED one of the straps to stop it wheel spinning so much... Still shredded the tyres though in the end... And they were just normal streets!

No it's not... Head out to WSID...

Maybe a car making 480RWHP at 9000RPM it is...

But if it's pushing 480RWHP at 4500RPM... You're making double the torque... IE, it'll accelerate twice as fast... :P

You developing double the torque in order to make the power at that speed but will you accelerate twice as fast?

Edited by DCIEVE

ive only dyno'd a few cars... but in my experience, when i strap them down (using dyno dynamics dyno) that this will not stop them from jumping off the dyno.. the front wheels being choc'd will more then likely .. the strapping down with snatch straps via the lower control arms to the traction bar only achieves better downforce on the rollers for more accurate figures and hopefully preventing wheelspin..

i get alot of people who get scared of thier cars jumping off the dyno and hitting the brick wall 8m infront of the dyno haha... does no one understand the theory of momentum ... a car has none when on the dyno... its not going far if it jumps off, especially when choc'd and the operator backing off.

Edited by Ruffels
Never claimed outrageous power numbers and nothing like I see posted these days. I did once claim very high 400rwkw from a Skyline and it did run well over 140mph over the 1/4 in full street trim to back it up.

what am i doing wrong?...ive got a r32 running around 145 MPH weighing 1571kg...its got over 600kw at the treads.

In 2004 ND4SPD was 500rwkw(683rwhp) on My Dyno and ran over 140mph on normal road Dunlops. ET was quite poor at high 10s but Speed proves the power.

I think people like having unrealistic power figures on their cars and are happy to believe they do even if they cant run the MPH they should.

http://www.dragsource.com/index.php?navsel...mp;calctoview=4

checks out here...

3457lb

best et 9.45

best MPH 145

best dyno figure 820hp

the result is only 2.5hp off

its made between 810 and 820 on two different dyno's in two different cities with a very skilled dyno operator.

NIB the car you are refering to is a freak (not ND4SPD the other one)...actually something has come to mind...what final drive is it using? ND4SPD's MPH is about right for the power as i ran 139.6 holding 3rd with 500KW at the treads.

Fatz the 145MPH was using 4 gears...hehe

Edited by DiRTgarage

Engine HP maybe not rear wheel. The figures used for these Power/weight v Speed calculators are all based on USA Superflow type dynos.

The car I was talking about backed up its power within 2rwhp at a big car show. 500rwkw is just short of 800 at the flywheel and returned 143 and a bit MPH.

Big George Toyota is around 1440kg and ran 150 and low 9s with 600rwhp, Glen Robinsons Ford is 1275KGs and ran 8.8@ 152mph with 820 flywheel on a Superflow engine dyno.

Engine HP maybe not rear wheel. The figures used for these Power/weight v Speed calculators are all based on USA Superflow type dynos.

The car I was talking about backed up its power within 2rwhp at a big car show. 500rwkw is just short of 800 at the flywheel and returned 143 and a bit MPH.

Big George Toyota is around 1440kg and ran 150 and low 9s with 600rwhp, Glen Robinsons Ford is 1275KGs and ran 8.8@ 152mph with 820 flywheel on a Superflow engine dyno.

they refer in the text below the calculator to being within 2hp of a dynojet dyno...i.e. a chassis dyno

http://www.dynojet.com/automotive_dyno/default.aspx

what am i doing wrong?...ive got a r32 running around 145 MPH weighing 1571kg...its got over 600kw at the treads.

Thats with you in the car and the fuel cell filled right? I thought a stripped R32 drag GTR would weigh less than that... I suppose the roll cage adds a bit of weight back?

I've weighed mine with me in the car and fuel (can't remember exactly how much fuel there was, probably half a tank) and it was 1500kg on the dot. Mates aero top supra was 1620kg with him and fuel in it for reference.

Edited by PM-R33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...