Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Grate write up from the event. I have been hanging to read all about it as I refuse to use Facebook and people only seem to talk on there, otherwise you wait months to watch it on DVD.

Do you think that not running any form of bov has caused the turbo failure? I know most people diss like them but a $50 part may prolong a $1500 part. I fitted one after my Garrett shit itself.

One thing that worries me doing a mainland trip is having something go wrong with the car. You can't carry a whole cars with of spares.

Keep it the good work.

well ADGP happened... theres a full write up of the drama's that i had along with pics on my website

http://www.smdrift.com.au/1/post/2012/06/adgp-round-2-wrap-up.html

after the box blew i went thrashing... not a single f**k was given

600780_10151048862472160_478648453_n.jpg

527711_238798996238104_408481056_n.jpg

I can't believe you blew up a 25 box, that mustn't happen every often? also what killed the turbo, just extended high temperatures cook the bearings/rear wheel?

Sucks to have two major things go like that, sounds like you have a blast either way though!

Edited by Rolls
  • 2 weeks later...

time for an update... first heres some pics and vids from calder.

in car of Ben purtel.. thought it was a good vid cause it really showed the speed of it all and the amount of smoke my car generates haha

38249040369330300058114.jpg

another shot with me and Andrew Constatine from Tas... this was during prac session sat morning before my turbo blew. chased him 3 times like this.. first time i tagged his rear bar and you can see my corner light is missing as a result haha

Update time: prepping for WTAC mainly.. that will be the next outing for the car. Diff is getting overhauled and new 4.3 gears. the New motor set up struggles a bit to turn 4.1's with sticky tyres which is why i blew 3rd probably. need an overhauled gearbox and then the motor is probably coming back out for a full check over also. fun times ahead.

i usually run 255/40/17's in Achillies ATR sports or Federal 595. for calder park i tried some of the new Achillies 123s in 265/35/18 pressures usually around the 25/30 psi mark but i actually had to run the 123s higher at 45 psi just to get a decent drift going.

the amount of grip and speed with the 123s is huuuuuuge!

VQ30 would be pretty cool though. But need a lot of attention to intake and exhaust manifolds. They are f**king mess.

Although VQ35 shit would bolt on and strokers, cams choice is abundant. With a really big 6-speed VQ35 gearbox.

It would be indestructable drivetrain. Not sure about the engien though.

You could get a VQ35 gearbox bolted up to RB, Simon. Won't be very difficult and that gearbox is huge. RB or JZ Getrag looks like small kitten near that monster.

Also + for better weight destribution with VQ30.

Edited by robots

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...