Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

box bolts up to bellhousing spot on... measurements were perfect!

however it seems dellow have stuffed up in another way.. the input shaft doesnt protrude far enough out.. i measured it and compared to to a stock Rb box and its quite the difference

in this shot you can see the bolts up top and dowel holes line up.. but starter motor and bottom bolts do not.

20121227191735.jpg

Flat edge is bell housing face.. this is RB20 input shaft protrusion from the face 18mm

20121227191056.jpg

distance to start of spline from bellhousing face

20121227191038.jpg

RB20 box

20121227191028.jpg

total length of spline, from bell housing face on jerico box

20121227190946.jpg

distance input shaft spigot area is away from bellhousing face

20121227190923.jpg

Splne begining measurement from face

20121227190933.jpg

20121227190851.jpg

more developments on bellhousing... looks like i can make it all work.. but with mods. custom spigot bush needs to be made, spline engagement will work no worries.

however the flywheel teeth foul the inside of the bellhousing!

LOL f**king hell they cocked this up in a big way

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...