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Well, as the title imposes. Was driving home the other night from work in a not very spirited manner and coming off a round a bout, select 3rd gear, selects fine, gas it a little to get to 80 and all i get is FKN BANG crunch rattle rattle clunk ect ect. Sad sad day for me. So, now what to do....Do i go looking for a stronger gearbox and hope to christ this never happens again or do i look to get the box reconditioned. Considering the gearbox is 74 450kms old i was a little shattered to say the least.

Is it worth going a straight cut/Helical cut 1-4 dog sync 5th or are the OS gearsets worth the hassle?

What are peoples experiences with PAR and PPG gearests (please, if your mate has one and he says, i dont wanna know, if YOU have one, im all ears)

Approximate costs ect if your willing to share would be great too. ATM car is a 33 GTR V-spec, dumps and equal length pipes into 3.5 Kakimoto exhaust and a k&n filter, JB carbon clutch and nothing else. All feedback is appreciated, cheers Allan

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Yeah... it happens.

Don't bother with a dog box, expensive and you'll hate it in 2 weeks... if your not going to push much more hp then just get a replacment box, or re-build yours with a scyncro os gearset.

I have a ppg helical box in my gtr... I love it! But i'm running around on sticky tyres and 400+rwkw, using the car for mostly drag racing

ppg gear set is worth about 7k plus parts and labour to fitt.

How on earth do you break THREE Nissan gearboxes? My 32 GTS4 is running a RB25DET through it, has just over 200k on it, and is still fine.

I had a 180B SSS - it was the race / rally / motorkhana / daily car. In over 300k, the only problems I ever had was a collapsed 1st gear layshaft bearing, and the selector rod had a bit of wear, making reverse a bit difficult to select.

In my experience, Nissan gearboxes are as good as bulletproof.

You won't be able to recondition the gearbox if you've blown gears, you'll need to rebuild which is excessive in an old vehicle/gearbox.

Recommend finding a second handy from somewhere and getting that reconditioned...she'll drive as good as new.

rb26 boxes have alot more mechanical pressure on them as compared to rb25, u cant compare them in strength by saying you have never broke ur rb25 box before

rb26 boxes break alot, especially in 3rd, all u can really do is drive it properly, use quality oil and make sure its clean, minimising metal to metal contact, other than that, its abit of a "im just lucky or im not" situation, especially with the rb26

Edited by snozzle

Well, after weighing up the options of getting a reconditioned gearbox and 'Hoping' this doesnt happen again Vs. the initial outlay and extra maintenance required for an aftermarket high strength gearbox ive decided to go with a PAR 1-4 straight cut synchromesh engagement gearbox. Thanks for the input and advice guys. Just a quick pre product plug for PAR, Gerrard seems to know what you want and is more than willing to give you as much information about what you want to know, great customer service guys!

Cheers, Allan

Are you buying boxes in bulk? ha ha ha

Almost lol! Average I pay is $650 ish second hand, currently have an second hand R33 GTR box fitted.

High revs, all wheel drive torque loadings, they ain't that bulletproof when they have the km's and age behind them and 2x stock hp.

Car had an os tripple plate, First box went, 3rd gear on a second to 3rd gear change, synchros felt weird then bang. Then fractured a clutch fork.

Second box was average, synchros were worn, busted the clutch fork pivot after a drive.

Put in an os twin plate, Third box bought for $700 and got recoed with new synchros and bearings, $1975. Didn't like the acceleration from the side of the road onto the road and fractured something inside, then a week later the teeth on the cluster gear sheared, sounded like a jackhammer!

Now on the 4th box, R33GTR with push type setup....you get good at changing these heavy mofo's with no hoist lol!

Sounds good, one less thing you have to worry about, the gears that is!

So I assume the decision to use nissan or aftermarket gears is mainly based on power level - right? If so, up to what power level are the stockers generally considered reliable? 350awkw??

Assuming 33GTRV's car is ~200awkw, surely aftermarket gears is a waste of money that level??

Some of the decision was based around the fact that the car is sock, For now!! I have a Vi-pec on the way and am looking at dash 5's, cams and fuel system. Im hoping to get away with 10k to get to my low 12/high 11 sec goal(10k including the box)

  • 2 months later...

i just broke my 3rd gearr,, goddd damnneddd... my 4th box noww, someone please pm me and try help me please, i want a strong boxx enough for a 300kw gtr, i dont know but maybe its my tyressthey ared the pirelli tyres, they are like a semni slickk tyre so maybe thats why these boxes are going maybe???

cheers

i just broke my 3rd gearr,, goddd damnneddd... my 4th box noww, someone please pm me and try help me please, i want a strong boxx enough for a 300kw gtr, i dont know but maybe its my tyressthey ared the pirelli tyres, they are like a semni slickk tyre so maybe thats why these boxes are going maybe???

cheers

OS Giken set. Your only gonna keep smashing them. They are cheap enough. I put the Giken billet centre plate in mine for added stiffness!

PPG currently have a GTR helical cut complete dogbox for sale...$6600...see their website.

bargain

I have both the helical dog and straight cut dog boxes in our circuit and drag cars respectively...if assembled correctly are near bulletproof. They are not a slap together item and have to be assembled using exact tolerances...the only ever issue PPG have experienced is when people who 'think' they know what they are doing assemble them.

I used the OS Giken gearset for years and only ever had an issue when it was again incorrectly assembled. This is why i now use Terry at Award Diff and Gearbox for all our gearbox work...he has saved us a lot of issues and headaches.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Paul. Out of curiosity what was the issue when the OS box was assembled incorrectly?

Box would shift ok cold but when warm it would be extremely difficult to shift...it was like someone had filled it with rapid set concrete to the point where you could not move the shifter out of neutral.

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