Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

was drivin next to a black R32 Gts-t,plated SLO-32W at James Ruse Dr, Rose hill on thursday 11-03-10 around 4.30pm in my blue R34

spotted a white R32 GTR plated WPN-26T near UWS Parramatta today around 5pm-ish

this afternoon saw a silver 32 GTR on richmond rd i believe.

A White 33 GTR near m7 bridge intersection waiting upon the lights.

just 20 mins ago saw and cruised with another 32 GTR with those pearlescent coloured rims starting at the intersection near maccas on windsor rd following each other all the way untill merging onto macquarie rd :blush:

R34GTR is on bakes BLACK R34 and he lives in Newcastle....

Spotted KIW 18U on Old Windsor Rd on Friday and then I was going down Norwest Blvd and I heaqrd a car come past soooo fast and its IMED (not sure if the plate is correct) the White R35 GTR

Sounds tasty

Spotted a white s2 R33 GTSt with gold wheels (kinda like CR Kai's) in Seven Hills this afternoon turning onto Prospect Highway from Station Road, then just a moment later spotted KIW18U (Bayside blue 34 GTR) parked at Riley's Gym.

R34GTR is on bakes BLACK R34 and he lives in Newcastle....

Spotted KIW 18U on Old Windsor Rd on Friday and then I was going down Norwest Blvd and I heaqrd a car come past soooo fast and its IMED (not sure if the plate is correct) the White R35 GTR

Sounds tasty

Plates are INMED. This dude that lives around the corner from my house owns it. He either works at resmed or the new bella vista hospital (obviously lol)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...