Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

I bought the 152 tooth timing belt that Spool imports supply for the rb25/30 conversion.. But its not long enough... !! My fault not Spools!

I used the rb30det.pdf thats around to setup my tensioner pulley. Were its written in a picture were to mount the tensioner.

i need a other belt that is 2 - 3 tooth longer.. 4 -5 tooth will prob be okay also. Were and what can i use? I have looked in Dayco wepshop, and can see the tooth proflile for the belt used in the .pdf file is: STP8M (Dayco number 94407).

Can I use other tooth profile? Or is my only option the 164 tooth long belt? If still need to be STP8M profile...? Do you think i can use the 164 tooth belt??

Really hope someone can help me out here.

Edited by nissan200sx.dk
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292829-other-option-for-timing-belt/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

CA series motors only run a 3/4 inch belt ~19mm wide, the rb belt is inch ~ 25mm wide. Are you sure your belt is not hanging over the side of the idler?? it will wreck the belt in minutes of running

i would say that you will wreck the belt like that.

Can you get another RB tensioner? they are the correct width and also seem to be cheaper than the RB idler pulleys. Plus like proengines said, you can adjust it to suit

Looks liek you either need to re-drill and tap the top tensioner, or contact gates belts and get them to make you a custon lentgh belt. The next size they do in 8mm HTD is 164 teeth which is 96mm longer than the belt you have now and probably too long?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m interested in the carbon diffuser fins and Toshiba MFD screen replacement if they’re still available.
    • @GTSBoy yeah i know it was not the "great" idea but it is and option...but i think i will stay on no BoV rather then trying to make it work with "half" this and that. But that GReddy FV2 is cool...i like that you can make it like stock if you want (and have/make the custom pipes) For other thanks! it was alot of information. But for the sound...a dont rly "like" both of them...specialy if they are loud...but if i "must" choose i would rather have little whooosh rather than sutututu with no BoV....BUT that is what is i gonna get. So for the all info i gather. In my case:  No BoV is not that bad cuz it is stock...and iam used to put N/clutch right after rpms are around 1000 so it should be ok...just need to avoid "big" drops. But i do not have the engine in the car so i do not really know how "bad" or good it is. But as i had that little test drive it looked ok. The atmo BoV should be worse car would dump to much fuel specialy between the shifts...so without proper tune/ECU i dont want that. BUT with that...car should drive ok with no problems right? (i do like there is less piping wih this solution) 🙂 
    • Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.
    • They aren't, but it depends on what interests you about an R32-R34. If it's the front engine I6 turbo that tunes well with a manual transmission an E92 335i 6MT is so incredibly cheap. You can get a super clean one for 20-25k USD tops. Put an LSD in it, tune it, have fun with it. If it's the general idea of AWD + turbo and a manual transmission the 996 Turbo is absolutely much more expensive, it's less practical but it's also basically a complete track-ready car from the factory. At least the Mezger doesn't have heaps of oil control issues. And in the US the 996 Turbo and R33 GTR are roughly the same price these days. 996 maybe a bit more now that the hype has abated for old Skylines here.
    • these are not the same
×
×
  • Create New...