Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just make sure he doesn't have a stage 8 auto transmission, because if he does you're gonna be flat out of luck. Those things are animals with this upgrade. Do you know what he has under his bonnet? I think you should get a couple of parts from Japan before taking him on.

Just make sure he doesn't have a stage 8 auto transmission, because if he does you're gonna be flat out of luck. Those things are animals with this upgrade. Do you know what he has under his bonnet? I think you should get a couple of parts from Japan before taking him on.

Dude, OVERNIGHT parts from Japan, and a Motec Exhaust to say the least. I'd probably re-enforce the floor plan because they've been known to come loose when you're manifold pressure is to high. Keep it to 5 shots yeah?

i hear MoTec are releasing new turbo back exhausts designed specifically for 33GTST's that will be doing drags. they say gains of up to 45RWKW are easily achievable with stock turbo. try google'ing that shit brah

I'm assuming you'll be "racing" at Calder on Friday night yes?

Yeh thats what he said Calder,still have a couple uv weeks before i take him on.so wil put a few things in the line.at the moment i got a Blitz Fmic,nismo turbo back,what else do u reckon should i get?

Yeh thats what he said Calder,still have a couple uv weeks before i take him on.so wil put a few things in the line.at the moment i got a Blitz Fmic,nismo turbo back,what else do u reckon should i get?

Oh ok, so this will be a legal race...in which case I'll give you a serious answer:

Get a bleed valve / manual boost controller; don't run much more than about 11psi. If you get a chance do some supporting mods like a front mount intercooler and exhaust system.

Those crossfires are pretty quick (they sound awesome too). You can match one with an exhaust system alone but you will need to be perfect in your shifts and launch.

^^ Brids, he already has a FMIC and turbo back exhaust. :)

Boost controller is the next step then maybe a tune, get an APEXi Power FC...

Upgrade your Panel Air Filter to a high flow one, like APEXi, K&N just to name a few... Or you got an air pod?

I never new the Crossfires where that fast...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...