Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have had a search but not uncovered any hard information;

What is the largest frame turbocharger that will fit on the standard RB25 manifold and not hit the strut tower/ frame rail?

I know people have fitted a GT3076 with a 10mm spacer and there is clearance, but how about GT35 etc.

I appreciate that most people wont run the std manifold on large-frame turbos as the stock unit becomes restrictive, but any info would be great

Cheers

* EDIT: I probably should clarify so I dont sound like an idiot-

I have a Holset HX35 (trying to keep it under wraps until I have it all together) and Im trying to work out (without test fitting- lazy) how much room, if any, I am going to have.

From what I can gather, the HX35 comp housing is bigger than a GT30 size, and Im a little worried about it.

All of the other Holset applications I have seen have been in R32's/ RB30s or on high mount manifolds.

Cheers

Edited by Yeedogga

GT35 is the same size as a GT30 in terms of frame.

I think a few people have tested the stock manifold useless after about 300rwkw though, which isn't even near GT35 territory anyway so no real point in many ways.

There are a couple of options but as Nismoid said pointless if the manifold can't pass enough exhaust gas to make it worth the while .

Two that spring to mind are the T04Z with a T3 flanged T4 turbine housing or a T3 flanged version of the GT37xxR turbos Garrett sell to the "deesel ute mate /aircraft carriers in the US market - think GMC/ Dodge Cummins Ram/Ford F111 .

Both the T04Z and the GT37 BB turbos are the larger BB "frame" or shaft/center section units . Probably need at least a HKS cast low mount manifold to even start to flow well enough .

A .

  • 9 months later...

Resurrecting this thread- I bolted the turbo to a manifold on the weekend to see how much spacing out it would require...

It just looks far too big to fit down in the stock location... Does anyone know the diameter of a GT30 comp housing??

What you think, will it blend? (sorry, fit...)

post-55684-1283753306_thumb.jpg

post-55684-1283753325_thumb.jpg

Any thing fits a .70 comp and 1.0 turbine with a 12mm spacer will do the job. But fitting up an internal wastegate and setup its bracket to operate without hitting any thing is very difficult.

  • 2 months later...

any luck with this? i am looking to do the same, which means plans have been on hold till i find out if it fits. have you tried positioning it in the engine bay yet? what kind of clearances are you getting (if any?). any guidance would be much appreciated. cheers, Daniel

Any thing fits a .70 comp and 1.0 turbine with a 12mm spacer will do the job. But fitting up an internal wastegate and setup its bracket to operate without hitting any thing is very difficult.

So a .7 ar GT60 comp housings will fit?

I dont think so

So a .7 ar GT60 comp housings will fit?

I dont think so

LOL @ above. Le sigh, strippey horse I know your pain.

GT3582R .70AR = Centre of turbo to centre of outlet = 76.2mm

GTX4202R .60AR = Centre of turbo to centre of outlet = 108mm

AR = Aspect Ratio, not fking cm2

but .7 is bigger than .6 :blink:

as already said its pointless running anything bigger than a gt3076 on a standard manifold as it becomes a massive restriction above ~280rwkw

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...