Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I hope you guys are able to help me, I currently own a 1998 R34 RB25DE auto with POD and CAI with Coby header and custom full exhaust (no Cat) currenlty it 103KW@105km.

I am planning the next stage of my project however I am not sure whats best way going forward so my question to this forum as follows

Current my plans

1.Upgrade the brakes and LSD diff is to use R33 turbo brakes and diff

2.Upgrade to Fuel pump to R34 turbo model

3.Install tran, Oil and Power steer coolers

4.Stage2 shift kit for auto

My goal for this project is to have bulletproof setup and street driveability rather standard goal of outright power so my question to this forum, is which is better setup, kept it NA, NOS, turbo or install a vh45de.

<h1 id="query_h1" class="query_h1">

</h1><h1 id="firstHeading" class="firstHeading">

</h1>

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295823-na-nos-turbo-or-vh45k/
Share on other sites

Stage 2 Shift Kit provided your gearbox is in good condition.

Mine was flaring a bit, then when I done the turbo conversion it showed its true flaring nature. Once I bumped the boost up, well lets just say the gearbox specialist found metal debris in the gearbox pan and 3rd gear was just about gone.

If your gearbox is in good condition, a shift kit will help strengthen it and improve shifts. If it's not, it will prematurely #*%# the gearbox.

Turbo model brakes make for a good upgrade. Might as well change the brake lines as well if they're in not so great condition. Brake West in Victoria can hook you up with lines to suit that are ADR Approved Braided Stainless Steel.

As for fuel pump, I would go with a new pump and get say a Walbro GSS342. They're replacement pumps, good for 500HP (might be 550HP, can't remember of the top of my head right now) If you're looking at pushing that much juice though then you "may" need to look at injectors. GTT Injectors are straight replacements. You will need GTT injectors for an R34 unless you do a custom fuel rail as they're top feed but different to GTR injectors.

If you want decent power without a turbo, than the RB isn't the best without investing a LOT of money for comparable results.

When you say turbo, are you talking an N/A+t set up? or an engine swap?

If you do an N/A+t, ensure your R34 GT Gearbox is in good condition, get the box strengthened! or swap and shift kit a GTT box. Get a transmission cooler (I'm yet to get one). Oil Cooler (a must, mines yet to go in). Ensure your intake temps are cool with the right intercooler and CAI set up. Combined with the turbo brakes and LSD should make for a great daily driver. Driveability will be nice and responsive too.

On the note of driveability over outright power... have you done handling and suspension mods?

Bulletproof setup for street drivability?

Sell the car and buy a GTT. The faffing about required to either +T your DE, or even do a DET engine swap, and get it OEM reliable is more than the financial hit from selling your car and buying another one.

The GT-T is more than just the engine. Gearing, cooling, brakes, etc all add up cost- and complexity-wise. If you want a "bulletproof" fast car, get one that came from the factory (with a warranty) fast. Then do light bolt-ons on that.

Nitrous is a waste of time for drivability. You have to keep the bottle warm and purge before you use it, and it runs out too quick.

A VH45DE conversion would be cool, but it would take a shitload of effort.

Depends on your budget.

1. If you have the $$$ right now - go straight to a GT-T, then spend on the mods. Less hassles.

2. If your budget is not that much and you want to keep the car - I wouldn't bother spending much more on "power up mods", just on supporting mods to make the car more reliable when you drive it hard. Oil and trans coolers. Premium oils and fluids. Also focus on handling if you can stretch your budget a little.

3. de+t setup - Would only be in your favour if you have spent lots of money on the car already or if you just want something different. Reliability should not be an issue as I imagine your are going for something conservative, but be prepared to spend more in comparison to a straight GT-T.

Your current setup is not too bad - personally I'd get the trans done, add the oil and trans coolers - should be good.

vh45de conversion, plus turbo, plus NOS. now that would be awesome, LOL

but in all seriousness, i would just sell it and get a gt-t. for what you could sell your car for you could probably just buy a gt-t since NA's go for more now due to the P plate restrictions. then just put an exhaust on it (if it doesn't have 1 already) and wind the boost up a bit and you will have a fast car that drives well on the street. certainly the cheapest option too.

pfft vq35de with 6 throttles, how is that better than a vh45? the only thing it has going for it is a superior valve train and slightly better weight distribution which unless you track your car on a regular basis isn't going to mean squat ! =)

If you can affoard it and like the challenge of diy, go the vh45! If you really want to go turbo, then I suggest what others have said and just sell up and buy a turbo. Best of luck!

sell it buy a turbo :sick: The NA cars have weak boxes, crap brakes and require more money to make decent power than it would take to buy a R34 GTT

the VH45 aint a flash engine, prick to fit and at the end of the day the same effort could be put towards fitting a 1UZFE (far better engine) better aftermarket support (chargers, ecu's and if your keen internals)

TBH NOS is our first choice for NA r34's as its cheap and effective and has no lasting drawbacks.

sell it buy a turbo :dry: The NA cars have weak boxes, crap brakes and require more money to make decent power than it would take to buy a R34 GTT

the VH45 aint a flash engine, prick to fit and at the end of the day the same effort could be put towards fitting a 1UZFE (far better engine) better aftermarket support (chargers, ecu's and if your keen internals)

TBH NOS is our first choice for NA r34's as its cheap and effective and has no lasting drawbacks.

The 1UZ isn't a better engine than the VH45, the only superior thing about a 1UZ would be the late model ones with VVTI... Aftermarket support, I guess you've got me beaten there though :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Order for the 2025 model R35 GT-R were accepted from 3rd March and 26th August the last order rolled off the production line at the Tochigi plant. Concerning the R35 GT-R replacement, current Nissan CEO Ivan Espinosa said "Nothing has been decided about the GT-R at this time, but we are well aware that everyone is waiting. The GT-R will evolve and reappear in the future. Please be patient until that day comes." Nissan has a lot of issues with management and finances so take Espinosa's words with a big grain of salt. From what discussions I've had and read about here in Japan, not a lot of people are confident about Nissan's future, let alone the next GT-R. 
    • Thanks. We getting some parts along too so he will be solving the speed issue like next week so i will let you know what he came up with.   
    • 21 is explicitly the coils detected as the issue. Is it guaranteed the actual issue? No. Just the ECU thinks it is. When you say rattling, describe it better, get an audio clip as best you can if possible.
    • Yea got me coppers. Bad news is I just put them in and the car still has the light and shakes. I also noticed I hear like rattling coming from the exhaust piping right under me. Does 21 also have a possibility of being O2 sensors?   So, coil packs are good, the harness is good, the MAF is working, and obviously the spark plugs just replaced and working.
    • Make sure you drop the GTT base tune back in, and set your injectors again, this will remove anything playing up with it you may have removed. Possibly lean there as it's normally a fast transient going THROUGH atmospheric pressure, and a turbo motor would then quickly go richer as boost builds. The only worry you MIGHT have is ignition timing, as the DE is higher compression than the DET from memory. But again, you're not in boost, so the DE motor will be a lot more forgiving at atmospheric.   Get Murray, Kinkstahs, and Johnny's input on tuning haltechs, those guys have played with tuning enough in the past to be able to help now you're past the trouble shooting stage of the MAP issue
×
×
  • Create New...