Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

For those who heard my project plans a few months back the car has now been in the workshop for the past two weeks and thought I'd put up some pics to show you the progress.

Parts being used:

GTR Front Bar to fit GTS (Jetspeed)

400R Rear Bar (Jetspeed)

Do Luck Skirts (PSI Parts)

Wide Vented Front Guards (PSI Parts)

Wide Rear Guards (PSI Parts)

C/F Bonnet (Unknown)

C/F Duck Wing (PSI Parts)

C/F Diffuser Tray (PSI Parts)

C/F Front Lip (PSI Parts)

GTR Front Indicators (Kudosmotorsport)

Clear Side Indicators (eBay)

Aerocatch Pins (VSport)

Basically the car is having a widebody fitted with carbon accessories and there will be a full colour change but you'll have to follow this thread to see the end result. The rims are currently being ordered Volks SF Challenge 18x10 +10 front and rears being a GTS-4 didnt want staggered rims.

If you need any parts for a R33 I'd recommend speaking to Shane at PSI Parts top bloke and hasn't let me down on any of these parts all top condition especially on all c/f parts. Delivery or Pickup available in Dandenong

Bodywork being done by Phatt Audio Concepts in Mordialloc, thanks to all the boys slaving away there to get this done before summer, for those interested check out www.nsyane.tv and watch the videos on their bodywork and audio installations and diy installations. Everything from old school muscle cars, jap imports to euro and currently the Holden Alphabet car made up from VX VY VZ Avalanche, Maloo parts.

post-59566-1258119370_thumb.jpg

This is when the wheel arches have been plasma cut to allow for bigger rims to fit in no scrubbing

post-59566-1258119804_thumb.jpg

The front shot now showing the c/f bonnet, gtr front bar and wide front guards

post-59566-1258119838_thumb.jpg

The wide rears arches which need to get filled with some nice dish

post-59566-1258119874_thumb.jpg

Front angle shows the guards and vents in the bonnet

post-59566-1258119910_thumb.jpg

Top shot of the bonnet to get better view for you guys

post-59566-1258119946_thumb.jpg

Shows the stance of the wide arches front/rears

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296187-widebody-build-r33/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeh he said he was going to send it to me when I picked it up, but havnt received it, but yeh he said standard brackets are super low so gave me sum metals strips to make my own, I may mould it into the rear bar as ines got a 400r rear bar. Will see how it goes as thats like the last add-on feature

not putting shit on your car man as i think its gona turn out pretty good but its not realy wide body, will be same width as a gtr and my concern is that the diffuser will look shite on a 400r rear bar, diffuser is made to suit a standard bar, to my knowledge 400r bar already sits lower

best of luck with everything tho

  • 2 weeks later...

Any this mate...

Personally, I think custom-flaring the rear guards of a R33 and then getting GTR bolt-on front guards for a R33 would make it look super fan already!

Please please prove me wrong with some pictures!

^^^completely off topic, sorry, but spunky monkey, i would do crazy (probably illegal) things to the chick in your avater,,shes hott

HAHAHAHAHAHHA.....thanks mate...I had a picture of Monkey Magic there for like years...then I did a search on Google for spunky munky and funny enough this picture came up...so I added it to my Avatar...I even got some PM's asking if I'm her??

HAHAHAHAAHAHH so I cannot blame you! :)

Edited by Spunky Munky

Just on an update due to delays for the rims have changed from the Volks SF Challenge to Work Emotions XD9 with the polished lip with polished black centres.

Sizes:

5x114.3 - 18x10 +18 offset

post-59566-1259241005_thumb.jpg

Direct from Work Wheel Australia thanks to Mike

post-59566-1259240893_thumb.jpg

So you can see on a 32

Agreed although this is my build thread that the chick in the avatar is HOTT...lol

Why cudnt that be you, dam u spunky monkey, dam u! lmao

Hahahah...I'm sure you guys wanna spank my monkey!! :)

Cars currently in highfill atm possibly gettng the paint sprayed over the weekend or monday

Will be heading down to the shop this arvo to check out progress, don't worry once I know I'll post pics for you

Still waiting on the wheels from NSW, and some other accessories

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...