Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i did a forum search and went through 4 pages of results without finding anything...

so my fuel gauge on my R33 is broken. it's funny...i had a r31 before this and it broke on that one too. maybe it's just me. it just sits on dead empty all the time. so i just fill it up every now and then, hoping i don't run out of fuel.

Does anyone know what's involved in getting it fixed and who i can go to for it? I thought i would ask on the forum before asking shops to see if i could learn anything useful. learn from ur experiences perhaps.

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297010-broken-fuel-gauge/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
pull the sender out of the tank and give a good clean out as they get covered in rust and gunk

Umm...how easy is this to do? 

It seems like you can get access to it by following this guide: http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/forums/...l-pump-r33.html

minus changing the fuel pump...

  • 2 months later...

its four screws for the cover, then about 6 -8 for the sender and it will come straight out.. check that the spring and floater arm are in good condition, i had the same problem with mine bcoz my floater arm thingy was bent from a previous owner swapping fuel pumps dodgey like...

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey man, I donno if it would be any use to you.

There is 3 pins at the back of the 33 dash that refer to the fuel.

By the sound of things it seems that it is more a gauge problem then the sender unit (if it went up when accelerating).

You can measure the 3 pins and see what you get. There is labels on the back of the dash for the correct pin (well it is actually 3 screws)

You can't miss it: Looking at the back of the dash, next to the right 10pin connector the fuel track that connects to the centre screw of the gauge is the sender signal.

The signal is a measurement between 0 ~ 180Ohm depending on level of the tank. With the ignition off, measure that wire in relevance to a ground. Using a multimeter on the 200 ohm setting. Alternatively.. Measure the other two pins. The top pin (screw) is GND, the bottom is +8V when ign is on.

If you find out that the gauge is at fault (measurements ok) let me know, I have another instrument cluster you can try and plug in, and see if that fixes the problem.

  • 1 year later...

hey guys

i have the same problem with my r33 gtst

i parked the car on a slight angle with a full tank of fuel and when i came back the needle was past the E right at the bottom of the gauge. i plugged in another dash cluster and the needle started dropping streight away.

did you guys work out what was wrong?

clean or replace the sender unit?

if replace new or second hand? expensive?

cheers!!

Try get a variable resistor and plug it into the terminals at the fuel tank. Turn your ignition on move the resistor and see if your gauge moves. If it does then your fuel sender is nackered. If it still doesnt it could be a wiring fault between the fuel sender and your instrument cluster or the cluster itself may be nackered. From memory you can get variable resistors from somewhere like dicksmiths for a few dollars. Not to sure which terminals to prob but, you may need a wiring diagram for that. Hope that helps a bit?

Try get a variable resistor and plug it into the terminals at the fuel tank. Turn your ignition on move the resistor and see if your gauge moves. If it does then your fuel sender is nackered. If it still doesnt it could be a wiring fault between the fuel sender and your instrument cluster or the cluster itself may be nackered. From memory you can get variable resistors from somewhere like dicksmiths for a few dollars. Not to sure which terminals to prob but, you may need a wiring diagram for that. Hope that helps a bit?

I tried this and the gauge works fine so it must be the sender.

  • 2 months later...

Ok i took out the fuel sender unit and the float is not stuck plus it looks in good condition!!!

but the gauge is still stuck on reading 3 1/4 full??

i even filled the tank right to the top to see if it would move but no luck...

how can i check to see if its the gauge thats faulty or the sender unit not working??

Ok i took out the fuel sender unit and the float is not stuck plus it looks in good condition!!!

but the gauge is still stuck on reading 3 1/4 full??

i even filled the tank right to the top to see if it would move but no luck...

how can i check to see if its the gauge thats faulty or the sender unit not working??

Did you pull apart the sender and give it a clean? Also the gauge could be faulty. You can test with a potentiometer or by simply pulling apart the fuel sender and then plugging it back in turning the ignition on and moving the float up and down to see if the gauge moves.

hope this helps. :)

might be a stupid question but do u have to do any thing before opening the fuel tank

from my understanding i thought they were pressurized

you can start the engine and run the car and then pull the fuel pump fuse or relay this will remove the pressure in the fuel system and then the car will stall.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...