Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 25-gt V 4th Gen Vti-r Prelude

HairyMerkin

By HairyMerkin,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

JGTC Proficient

JGTC

Posted
Posted (edited)

To be honest, all Honda people think that, typical Honda speak, i don't mean to generalise but that's the reality

As far as the comparison, i really don't think the 4th gen Prelude will match up to a GT-V - which has better low down torque, LSD bigger brakes than the standard 25GT model

The only Prelude i think will give an R34 a run for its money is a JDM 3rd gen V-tec Prelude with mild mods, mate of mine has one with Mugen Extractors, pod filter and full X-force exaust and he's pulling 110kws atw, bearing in mind they are also 1100kgs

Edited by squareznboxez
Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

I hate these threads but I love posting in them, go figure. Just go and do the drag race already. On paper though, the Prelude will win in a dash off the line. In a rolling drag from 80km/h...might be more even / in favour of the Skyline. Just look at the 0-100 times of them both. VTi-R Preludes are no slugs by N/A standards. And squareznboxez...Preludes are more like 1350kg from memory.

R34 -_- Community Regular

R34 -_-

Posted
Posted

Stats don't mean shit unless your racing brand spankn new cars straight from the factory, maintenance plays a big part in comparing used cars, If a cars had a hard life then i think its fair to say it will certainly have less power and torque than what it had brand new. Even if a car has 50hp more than another car on paper it doesn't necessarily mean its going to be the fastest, might have low compression on a cylinder and have a f(*ked piston or something.. lol.. You never know who will win until you race. :)

iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted

oh boy another of these threads.

Go to a race track/drag strip and find out.

Too many factors as the guys pointed out above.

Also transmissions, mods and driver skill - Launching a FWD prelude is heaps harder than a RWD skyline.

Pointless thread really.

Who's di(k is bigger

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

probably be a close race and come down to who gets the better launch. sure the fwd is a bit harder to launch, but they aren't that hard but the honda's aren't exactly torque monsters so wheelspin is less of an issue. go and try and launch a manual 3.5L magna and you will find it a bit harder.

both cars being dead stock and with a decent launch from each vehicle i think i would probably have to put my money on the honda though.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
To be honest, all Honda people think that, typical Honda speak, i don't mean to generalise but that's the reality

As far as the comparison, i really don't think the 4th gen Prelude will match up to a GT-V - which has better low down torque, LSD bigger brakes than the standard 25GT model

The only Prelude i think will give an R34 a run for its money is a JDM 3rd gen V-tec Prelude with mild mods, mate of mine has one with Mugen Extractors, pod filter and full X-force exaust and he's pulling 110kws atw, bearing in mind they are also 1100kgs

and skyline owners talk the same was as well. basically it's the same shit with a different brand. nearly every fan boy is going to say that their car is faster than a different make, reguardless of whether it actually is or not.

ShanO` Collaborator

ShanO`

Posted
Posted
and skyline owners talk the same was as well. basically it's the same shit with a different brand. nearly every fan boy is going to say that their car is faster than a different make, reguardless of whether it actually is or not.

I also agree with this...

Fan boys piss me off

JGTC Proficient

JGTC

Posted
Posted

Sorry my mistake, the curb weight of 4th gen Preludes are 1280 kg, which is the one my mate has, the JDM V-tec versions had the same power from the factory as a R34 25GT, assuming your mate's one is the more common ADM non V-tec model i think your car will be much better.

5th gen Preludes are even worse unless you have a JDM Type-S

With the fanboy statement i think Honda fans rate their V-tecs much more than any other car fans rate their NA or turbo cars

KezR33 Veteran

KezR33

Posted
Posted
and skyline owners talk the same was as well. basically it's the same shit with a different brand. nearly every fan boy is going to say that their car is faster than a different make, reguardless of whether it actually is or not.

My Supra is faster than both. ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...