Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Caltex Vortex 98. But any 98 RON fuel is going to be better for your engine than 95 RON premium or normal unleaded. Increased power and or better economy (depending how you drive it) and perhaps even more importantly less sh#tty deposits on your injectors inlet manifold/ head ports and plugs.

Not sure a higher RON value is going to make for a better or cleaner fuel. You can take a shit fuel and add octane booster and it still will be a shit fuel. I used Vortex for a while because it was close and easy but t.b.h. it's not that great. I've had better economy and much better performance from BP Ultimate. If I use anything else after ½ tank the difference becomes noticable.

Yes I agree, I'm using Caltex 98 recently because of the Safeway promotion and only get 150km around the half-tank mark! Used to use Mobil 98 which brought me at least 200+ km.

I've tried Shell and BP - they are both alright, but Mobil seems the most consistent with my V35.

BP 98+ or Mobile 8000 when I'm going for a decent drive or to the track, V-Power for the rest of the time.

Just bugs me that around my area BP 98+ is usually about 15c a litre more than V-Power (plus another 4c if I have a fuel discount coupons from Coles/Shell) and no Mobil stations with 8000 (98RON). Because the V35 definitely 'feels better' using BP/Mobil and gave about 1.1 - 1.2km/l better fuel economy on my Syd to Melb trips according to the 'green leaf-o-meter'... though I probably not advise you take those results as science!

which fuel do you use to fill up ?

BP Ultimate :rofl: ....reason being is that its a cleaner fuel then the rest of them and the only fuel that has a green house tick on this fuel. correct me if iam wrong. it depands on the individual car and their set up.

BP98, Mobile 8000 and Vortex 98 - went to 2 BP stations and both BP 98 were out of order - bone dry i guess so i went to caltex for vortex 98 took 10 mins to reach the pump some people are just stupid these days they look and stare at the pump and fuel type like if they dont know what the hell fuel there getting or its there bloody first time putting petrol into a car...this is while nozzle is in....boils my blood i tells ya!

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
    • If you are Ecutek tuned then these TCU tunes are anywhere from $550 to $700 usd. If you are not ECUTEK tuned, then it gets costly!    
    • Sorry to hear your HFM BM57 was faulty,  did you contact HFM I would hope they would be at least grateful for the information if there was some sort of manufacturing fault, you would hope they would be sympathetic even if your item was 2 years old if it had never been fitted. May I ask where it leaked from ?
×
×
  • Create New...