Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

SAU NSW is looking at holding a Paintless Dent Removal Day for our members. Basically we will set up at a workshop and have 1 - 2 PDR guys on site for the day to do their magic!

This is just an estimate on price

Small dents, which would be the size of a 10 - 20 cent piece, you would probably be looking at between $50 - $100 per panel. This would be depending on how many dents on the panel had etc.. Any larger dents or panels with a large amount of dents i.e. hail damage, could be a different price and would be quoted on the day. Also things such as age of car.. or paint job, the type of dent, location of damage etc come in to play, so the price can varey depending on these things..

We would run a BBQ on site all day, so food and drinks would be available - bunch of the SAU NSW execs would be around as well so if you had any questions or just want to come and hang out and chat you can too!

Please post up here if you are interested in coming on the day and getting some dents fixed!

Cheers,

Sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298553-eoi-paintless-dent-removal-day/
Share on other sites

I'm in!

Can i bring 5/6 cars?

Will he fix "girl"dents - As in how the fark did you manage to get a dent there? (my sister in laws car)

sure can

do you have people organised already to remove these dents?

If not i know of 1 or 2 people that might be interested

yep sorted already thanks.

Yeah im interested, depending who will be doing the dent removing and how experienced are they? dont mind paying the extra for a immac job.

they're pro's who do it for a living so not some random person trying to start a new hobby or some thing

umm.. I dont think so - you're better off with a smash repairer.

Keep in mind that not every dent can be fixed by paintless dent removal guys, some things need to be fixed at a smash repairs. If the paint is chipped or cracked it could end up looking worse after having this guys try and remove the dent.. so there might be a "No, sorry we can't fix this" depending on how bad the damage is etc..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...