Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Long story short, I recently replaced a f**ked gearbox in my car. I had to replace the clutch too, as the f**ked gearbox took the clutch with it.

I've had the car back maybe two weeks since it was all fixed up, and haven't given it any stick at all. Anyway tonight I was driving home, was a nice cold night, no one around so I thought I'd have a bit of fun.

Nothing major, I rolled off gradually from the lights before punching the throttle, then as I quickly put the car into second I stomped the throttle again only to have the revs literally fly up and the car not gain any power.

I thought the rear tyres were spinning, so I quickly put it in third and eased off on the accelerator, but again the revs flew up and I moved no where. It was at this point I obviously realized it was the clutch spinning not the wheels.

At the next stop it became apparent by the stink it was indeed clutch not the wheels. My question is, should a new clutch do this (HD Exedy) in an NA Supra? And how much damage have I done to my current one with this little stunt?

I've given my car much, much rougher shifts and launches at DECA etc, and nothing like this has happened before. Is there a chance they've stiffed me with a dodgy clutch, or was I just too enthusiasitic?

The car drove home fine, the clutch didn't feel any different. Just frustrating after having literally just replaced the clutch.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298577-burning-the-clutch/
Share on other sites

No, a properly installed standard clutch shouldn't do this let alone a heavy duty.

Was the flywheel machined at the same time as clutch being replaced?

Did they replace the whole clutch and not just the contact plate or pressure plate?

Might have been oil/grease on the flywheel, this can cause such symptoms. You might have a leaking rear main engine seal.

No, a properly installed standard clutch shouldn't do this let alone a heavy duty.

Was the flywheel machined at the same time as clutch being replaced?

Did they replace the whole clutch and not just the contact plate or pressure plate?

Might have been oil/grease on the flywheel, this can cause such symptoms. You might have a leaking rear main engine seal.

Flywheel was machined, and the rear main seal was replaced when the clutch was done the first time (maybe 3 months ago - pain in the ass having to replace it again).

Pretty sure the whole clutch was done, they just used another HD Exedy kit again.

How much damage can I do to a clutch when spinning it for... less than 5 seconds in second and third.

Thanks.

Long story short, I recently replaced a f**ked gearbox in my car. I had to replace the clutch too, as the f**ked gearbox took the clutch with it.

I've had the car back maybe two weeks since it was all fixed up, and haven't given it any stick at all. Anyway tonight I was driving home, was a nice cold night, no one around so I thought I'd have a bit of fun.

Nothing major, I rolled off gradually from the lights before punching the throttle, then as I quickly put the car into second I stomped the throttle again only to have the revs literally fly up and the car not gain any power.

I thought the rear tyres were spinning, so I quickly put it in third and eased off on the accelerator, but again the revs flew up and I moved no where. It was at this point I obviously realized it was the clutch spinning not the wheels.

At the next stop it became apparent by the stink it was indeed clutch not the wheels. My question is, should a new clutch do this (HD Exedy) in an NA Supra? And how much damage have I done to my current one with this little stunt?

I've given my car much, much rougher shifts and launches at DECA etc, and nothing like this has happened before. Is there a chance they've stiffed me with a dodgy clutch, or was I just too enthusiasitic?

The car drove home fine, the clutch didn't feel any different. Just frustrating after having literally just replaced the clutch.

Thanks.

why did you do that with a new clutch?you stuffed your clutch and most likely gonna need a new one.

i stuffed my standard clutch and could smell like a electrical smell and then got an exedy sports tough clutch installed and my mechanic told me to drive normal until the clutch is worn in.

its not recommended doing stuff like that with a new one.

He said he's had the car back for nearly two weeks...don't know about you guys but I don't drive far to work and I still cover about 400km in a week. If this is his daily and he's true to his word of taking care of it up until now then I'd say it was a dicey install.

Have you driven the car hard since this happened? To see if it does it again?

He said he's had the car back for nearly two weeks...don't know about you guys but I don't drive far to work and I still cover about 400km in a week. If this is his daily and he's true to his word of taking care of it up until now then I'd say it was a dicey install.

Have you driven the car hard since this happened? To see if it does it again?

Been too paranoid it'll happen again. Guess I'll have to find out anyway, might do it later tonight and see what happens.

To the above poster I had no idea clutches had to worn in. No one ever told me.

Installer should have told you that...always wear in new mechanical items.

It's possible there was just a bit of oil/grease on the flywheel that needed to be burnt off. Don't be paranoid about it...you can't stuff it up any worse than you already have if you have actually stuffed it. Give it some stick and let us know if she spins.

You can bring it past my work during the day if you can be bothered making the trip up Eastlink.

Installer should have told you that...always wear in new mechanical items.

It's possible there was just a bit of oil/grease on the flywheel that needed to be burnt off. Don't be paranoid about it...you can't stuff it up any worse than you already have if you have actually stuffed it. Give it some stick and let us know if she spins.

You can bring it past my work during the day if you can be bothered making the trip up Eastlink.

Where do you work?

I'm actually looking for a new mechanic I can trust as this one has done a couple of suspect things in the past. Wouldn't have taken the car there for the gearbox, but it needed to be towed and didn't have much choice.

I suspect that you need to adjust your clutch pedal height cos that's what happen to me when i install new replacement Twin plate for my HKS. Been playing around with the pedal height while using the old clutch plate bcos the grabbing point was too high. The slip will happen on higher revs meaning the clutch is not fully engaged. If yours only slip once or twice then probably the clutch is still ok. Hope this would help you....Cheers!

I suspect that you need to adjust your clutch pedal height cos that's what happen to me when i install new replacement Twin plate for my HKS. Been playing around with the pedal height while using the old clutch plate bcos the grabbing point was too high. The slip will happen on higher revs meaning the clutch is not fully engaged. If yours only slip once or twice then probably the clutch is still ok. Hope this would help you....Cheers!

I've previously always had HD Exedy clutches. Car came with one (nearly dead) when I bought it, and I replaced it with one.

Would replacing the gearbox and clutch (with the same model box and clutch) affect it, or is it only for when changing the type of clutch?

I gave the car a rather *hard launch the other night, and the car gripped fine, so here's hoping it was just a bit of oil.

* Anyone else give their car a hard time when it's pissing them off?

this same thing happened to me last week in my skyline r33 gtst was just standard clutch tho it done it to me a couple times the same night ended up burning the clutch so im now installing a heavy duty one but yeh 1 of the times i droped it down to third and it done it and second time i snapped second thought it was wheel spining but it was burning my clutch

I was lucky enough to have a friend adjust the pedal height back up slightly because the HKS Twins naturally release at the very top only, so was my bad for trying to follow other type of clutch kits. Btw how much clamping force and HP can the HD Exedy take before slip happens? I've been to the Exedy website but kinda confuse by the amount of product ranges available.

Where do you work?

I'm actually looking for a new mechanic I can trust as this one has done a couple of suspect things in the past. Wouldn't have taken the car there for the gearbox, but it needed to be towed and didn't have much choice.

At a gearbox and diff specialist, PM if you want some details :P

You don't want us as regular mechanics though...we charge shitloads lol. Engineers doing hoistwork = big bills.

How does one go about burning a clutch? I'm relatively new to driving manual.

Cheers,

fibbo.

Whilst the clutch is slipping... IE, it should be engaged, but isn't "locking up"... Or more, as described, revs go up, but speed/power doesn't match.

This leads to a burnt clutch. Also, dodgy shifts do as well, IE "Flaring" gears...

Yep. The clutch contact plate uses friction against the flywheel to move the car...if it won't grip the flywheel when you release the clutch pedal then it's slipping somehow...either because the pressure plate is worn, or you're using too high revs for the clutch on take off, or because there is oil/grease on the flywheel. Symptoms are experienced as if you have your foot on the clutch pedal...engine revs up easily...you go nowhere. If it slips too much then the friction material on the contact plate gets really hot and wears out quickly. Not so much a big deal for an already worn in clutch, but for a new clutch that hasn't bed in properly yet...this will destroy it.

Need more info... Can you still engage gears? and let the clutch out to drive? What does the clutch pedal feel like? springy or soft and doughy. Where is the contact point? high or low in the pedal travel. Not sure with HD clutches but anything with a puk or button type clutches are not ment to be ridden (at high revs) as this causes heat and wears the clutch. So they are either on or off with the pedal.

  • 1 month later...

I did a launch this morning at ~6 grand, and felt it slip and could smell what I presume is coming from the clutch?

It was a stock clutch and I'm getting a new twin plate in ~2 weeks, just thought I'd try and find the limits of my stock one. Well I have :D

Hope it can get me through the next 2 weeks and is not too stuffed? :P

I did a launch this morning at ~6 grand, and felt it slip and could smell what I presume is coming from the clutch?

It was a stock clutch and I'm getting a new twin plate in ~2 weeks, just thought I'd try and find the limits of my stock one. Well I have :(

Hope it can get me through the next 2 weeks and is not too stuffed? :banana:

lol twin plate? that's a bit excessive isn't it :(

Stock clutch will be fine unless it's to the point of slipping as you come on boost.

I run an exedy 4puck sprung button clutch, we'll see how it handles 500rwhp when the engine goes back in. For lower power levels it's an awesome clutch but was a bit of a cop to drive when it was behind the RB20. Needed 3500rpm to take off normally lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...