Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought a set of r33 gtr brembos

but the disc rotors looks a bit damaged,

can i used back my oem r32 gtr disc rotors??

of must i need the bigger diameter disc.??

is this a direct bolt on??

does anybody know wher i can get brembo rotors ?? front n rear?

also i need the pad, where can i buy some??

whats the diameter difference??

i know front is 325mm and 295mm, what about the rear?

Yeah same as normal rears mate.

You sure?

DBA list the povvo pack R32 GT-R rears as 297 dia x 18 thick. The R33 & R32 Vspec are 300 dia & 22 thick.

The other thing you need to do when bolting up a Brembo rear to a non Vspec R32 is bash the stone guard to get it out the way. The bit near the hub fouls so bash it gently - with a hammer.

You sure?

DBA list the povvo pack R32 GT-R rears as 297 dia x 18 thick. The R33 & R32 Vspec are 300 dia & 22 thick.

The other thing you need to do when bolting up a Brembo rear to a non Vspec R32 is bash the stone guard to get it out the way. The bit near the hub fouls so bash it gently - with a hammer.

Or just grind the stone guard off completely.

Or just grind the stone guard off completely.

A few things about the rears that I discovered doing the conversion:

The inner pads wear like a bastard if you don't remove the stone guard.

The upper outer link on the rear suspension is pretty close to the guard so be a bit carefull that you don't get too much heat onto the bushes. I taped mine over with some metallic tape so help reflect the heat.

The guard (from memory) hooks in under the hand brake shoes so you can't remove all of it.

Oh and the hoses from the R33 are too short for the 32's.

But you can use the lines from the R32, you also need to make sure you have the bolts off the R33 as they are a different pitch to the R32 caliper. Get rid of the shield all together, its not that hard, you just need to drill out the spot welds or just tin snip and rip back and forth until the spot weld rips. Then just file off any sharp edges.

You can even use the std brackets etc with a small 10min tweak per bracket. (i run aftermaket braided lines on my R32 before upgrading to the GTR rears, so should point out that my aftermarket R32 braided lines worked perfectly with the GTR Brembo rears)

But you can use the lines from the R32, you also need to make sure you have the bolts off the R33 as they are a different pitch to the R32 caliper. Get rid of the shield all together, its not that hard, you just need to drill out the spot welds or just tin snip and rip back and forth until the spot weld rips. Then just file off any sharp edges.

You can even use the std brackets etc with a small 10min tweak per bracket. (i run aftermaket braided lines on my R32 before upgrading to the GTR rears, so should point out that my aftermarket R32 braided lines worked perfectly with the GTR Brembo rears)

I am trying to remember why my 32 lines did not fit (or seem to fit). They were a bit different. It was easier for me in the end to get some new lines seeing as I upgraded everything else.

The Brembo bots are 1.5mm pitch, the Sumitomos are 1.25mm like most of the other Nissan stuff.

post-5134-1260253807_thumb.jpg

post-5134-1260253833_thumb.jpg

Shit! I may have been wrong it seems re the rear rotors, my sincere apologies mate, my old memory is failing as I just couldn't remember changing the rear rotors when I put brembos all round on my 32 GTS.

Sorry again. Oopsy!

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...