Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

damn mustnt be on up here in darwin and darwin doesnt get one hd!!

MAte, I watched it live on One HD then afterwards switched to Normal Ch10 to see it was being broadcast there, with about a 25 lap delay....... did you get to see it?

you didn't miss much anyway. i was hoping something would happen with all the extra fuel and longer stints on the tyres - you know like tyres going off or some cars getting faster than others with the decreasing fuel loads, but nothing happened at all. except for a dodgy spark plug it would have been a complete procession.

Wow...

Rookies retiring, teams not taking their starting positions due to their cars not being ready, little if any passing among the top 8....

3 hours of my life I can't get back.

Glad the top level of motorsport has its act together. What a SHIT RACE (I was looking for the right wording, thanks Roy).

*praying HARD that it had more to do with the track than anything else*

But my loyalty to Webber cost me :cheers:

How sad was it to see the worlds fastest cars running around between 4-10 seconds a lap slower then their quali pace.

I loved how in teh closing laps Webber backed it off then went over two seconds quicker then Button for a lap or two..just to say, look what this car could do in free air. The no refuelling has dumbed down strategy which has been one of the ingredients for good racing the past few years

As for improving the racing, its rather easy. Let them keep their gearboxes etc, just give them steel brakes which means more mass the suspension has to control, less road grip, longer braking distances...for a start. Re-introduce re-fuelling and allow teams and extra 3,000rpm for 12 seconds per race, with a max of 3 seconds per lap. You dont need KERS, just let them use the revs they were using 3 years ago

lock in nando for the title

vettel is the only one outside the team that can stop him, because massa has no fkn chance. as soon as he had clear air, he was gone!!

madatory pit stops is the only thing that will save 2010

Massa did have car problems though. But was impressive to watch Alonso clear out. I was impressed by Massa first race back. I suspect it will be a 3 way shootout for the championship, what will be real interesting is the new points system. Webebr has a chance of another top 4 finish in the WDC simply because he should have the car speed to win a few GPs this year and whoever wins will bag a shit load of points

I would have laid down more smoke into Turn 1 then Webber, thats for sure :cheers:

But it is pretty shithouse to see F1 cars lumbering along so far off their real pace. Gone are the days of almost doing quali laps as you come up to your stop....the cars are always wounded with fuel load or tyre wear

Let's not forget that this is only the first race, and Bahrain is not typical of the tracks they will be racing on most of the year. We'll see what happens after a few more races, then we'll be able to draw some better conclusions.

I agree with what most people have said, not the most thrilling race ever. Turning F1 into an economy run ... I'm not sure. But it may be better on the Euro tracks.

At least the top few teams are relatively even. Yes it was a Ferrari 1-2, but Vettel probably would have won it but for his mechanical, and McLaren aren't that far off. Mercedes are up there too, although "old-man-Schumacher" performed as I expected him to, average but not great.

Come Australia I think you will see a much stronger performance from Webber, he had a dud run in qualifying and that buggered up his race. Not saying it wasn't his fault but I don't think his result was representative of his potential.

The new teams ... all I can say is that they didn't seem to get in the way too much. I didn't think it was possible for an F1 car to be as slow as the HRT cars are. I think it's likely that the new teams will get testing dispensation (extra days) later in the year. I have to say though, it's really nice to see the Lotus-Cosworth combination together again. The car looks good too.

Don't despair guys! It's only one race, let's hope things pick up in Australia.

WHERE TO for F1 ,

for me the only GOOD POINT was to see LOTUS back in F1 having grown up not far from the team base & trying to get a job at the F1 team in the mid 80`s was great to see them back at the top again,

CC would smile to see them back in F1 ,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers)
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
×
×
  • Create New...