Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

Normally for a problem like this, i'd goto my mechanic, but with Xmas break and all, thats gonna be a bit difficult, so hoping some1 can help me with this.

To cut a long story short, I've just replaced the oil filter housing piece on my rb25DET. After screwing it all in, putting the oil pressure sender back on, refilling the oil, took it for a test drive and everything was a-ok.

Then today, I started it and noticed the oil pressure gauge sitting on 0 and the oil warning light on. Checked undeaneath the car, no leaks, checks the oil level which was fine and engine also sounds fine.

So im thinking the oil pressure sensor clip has come loose, so i take it for a small drive. To my horror, the oil pressure starts moving up VERY slowly, ie doesnt make it to 2kpa.

Now i know low oil pressure can be a sign of engine failure or a failed pump but im thinking its too much of a coincedence that Ive just changed the oil filter housing. My first thoughts are that something is blocking or interfering with the oil pressure sender. Was wondering what other ppl think it might be, Thanks.

Also FYI, I installed a new adapter onto the housing that lets me put 2 senders in it, and installed a oil temp sender in the other hole - its a gold t-pies looking thing.

Also the new housing I installed was 2nd hand, I gave it a quick clean with the cloth but im worried that there might have been some large piece of gunk inside it that I couldnt see and is now blocking oil access to the sender.

Edited by Taso84

check the wiring on the sender, sounds like it could be a poor connection on something, i had a similar issue with my ground wire before i ground off the paint off the chassis to make a better contact.

low oil pressure causes serious damage, very quickly, so if the motor's still strong after 5 or so mins of running, you can rule out oil system failure i reckon...

If the factory oil pressure gage AND the idiot red light came on, you have a real problem, not a wiring problem. The red light is a seperate sensor that's just and on/off pressure switch and it's completely independent of the normal gage.

should still make its way into the engine, the only way out is to the main gallery,

if you can open the oil cap while its running and see if there is oil splashing around in there, if not then its a problem.

so, you replaced the oil filter/cooler assembly? why?

no aftermarket oil cooler with hoses? do you now have a remote oil filter? if the hoses are mixed up that can trick the sensor.

Hi guys, and thansk for ur feedback.

Just to answer some questions, no i did not renew the oring on the housing shaft, so im not sure whether it is there or not. If this were missing, what would be the consequences?

Also, no i dont have a oil cooler now, basically my old housing broke due to overtightening of a sandwich plate. T04GTR, when u say open up the oil cap why its running, u mean the cap from which u pour oil into right? I didnt realise u could see down there but ill check it out.

Hi guys, and thansk for ur feedback.

Just to answer some questions, no i did not renew the oring on the housing shaft, so im not sure whether it is there or not. If this were missing, what would be the consequences?

Also, no i dont have a oil cooler now, basically my old housing broke due to overtightening of a sandwich plate. T04GTR, when u say open up the oil cap why its running, u mean the cap from which u pour oil into right? I didnt realise u could see down there but ill check it out.

Hi guys, and thansk for ur feedback.

Just to answer some questions, no i did not renew the oring on the housing shaft, so im not sure whether it is there or not. If this were missing, what would be the consequences?

Also, no i dont have a oil cooler now, basically my old housing broke due to overtightening of a sandwich plate. T04GTR, when u say open up the oil cap why its running, u mean the cap from which u pour oil into right? I didnt realise u could see down there but ill check it out.

did you renew the oring on the housing shaft?

my guess is its either faulty or missing.

my thought too, if the old one was off for awhile it could be perished or missing.

Well obviously you dont understand the fact that oil pressure is crucial for the survival of the engine.

Just fix it and be done with it, or take it to someone who can!

You can drive it if you like but chances are you wont get very far.

RB25's hydro lifters would sound like 24 rocks in a tin can if they were not getting decent oil press,

Good chance you botched the install but as per most of the people here, rather get it sorted asap preferably by a pro, oil problems and engines = expencive.

If the factory oil pressure gage AND the idiot red light came on, you have a real problem, not a wiring problem. The red light is a seperate sensor that's just and on/off pressure switch and it's completely independent of the normal gage.

It's been a while since i dug up in the 25 but isnt the oil pressure sender and the oil light unit that big round gold colored two pin thing by the oil filter?!?

If so if it has been damaged somehow when changing out the housing that will probably explain why the two readings went wacko at once.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...